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Unbelievably the Commando is playing up with less than three weeks to Austria and France. Noticed high frequency vibration at 80mph. This has worsened to bad vibration at 70mph. Hot engine with plugs out and there is a stiff point as the engine is turned by hand coupled with noisy valve train I think. Cold engine and all is well. I'll be removing the head at the weekend hopefully to find the problem.

Any ideas appreciated, Simon.

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Previously simon_ratcliff wrote:

Unbelievably the Commando is playing up with less than three weeks to Austria and France. Noticed high frequency vibration at 80mph. This has worsened to bad vibration at 70mph. Hot engine with plugs out and there is a stiff point as the engine is turned by hand coupled with noisy valve train I think. Cold engine and all is well. I'll be removing the head at the weekend hopefully to find the problem.

Any ideas appreciated, Simon.

Hi, Simon, I am in the process of rebuilding an engine that lost the Stellite off of one cam follower, a real rattler! I have heard of your problem with a cracked web on one side of the Crankshaft

. Worth stripping and checking the Crank for straightness, and crack testing it. Best of luck, Paul

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Thanks for the reply Paul, I'm hoping it will be at worst maybe carbon build up on a valve stem! It's confusing that the problems don't affect a cold engine only hot. I'll find out soon enough. Crankshaft has covered 130,000 miles and the followers are approx 80,000 miles old. Out of the two I guess the crank would be under the most stress and most probable suspect. Hope it's only a sticking valve!!

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That's bad news, Simon. I wouldn't suite call it 'unbelievable' though as it sounds like Sod's Law and that could have been formulated with Nortons in mind....

It's not a loose alternator rotor or disintegrating magnets is it ? A bit of expansion there could cause it to run close to the stator.

Good Luck on getting everything back together again for the rallies. It's never nice though when one's confidence in the reliability has been tested.

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Hello Simon,

I hope you can solve the problem without dismantling the whole engine. Before removing the cylinderhead I would check the tension of the timing chain. If it is too loose it causes horrible vibrations and noise at specific rpm. I am sure you will find a completely wrong valve clearence if you have problems with your camshaft or camfollowers. As mentioned by Richard I also think checking the alternator and rotor is a very good idea. Often two or three minor problems acting together will result in a strange reaction of your old Iron Lady. Ofcourse you can abuse her and reving her engine hard at long distances but keep in mind that you should allways give her a hug back if she brings you home again ;).Let us know when you find the problem.Hope to see you (and your bike) soon in Austria!Best regardsRoland
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Thanks for the moral support and advice guys. Spoke to a friend today who races a heavily modified Commando and apparently has a lot more experience at breaking standard Commando's than myself. He suggests it could be the drive side main bearing based on my report. I'll be chuffed if that's the only problem. Going to remove the sump filter to see what that shows and then strip the engine tomorrow to see what that reveals. I'll start with the primary drive and timing side and progress to the top end if necessary. Plan to leave for Austria on the 28th, that gives me 17 days which is plenty of time......no problem......I hope.

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If you only have to replace parts and there is no structural damage then as I'm sure you've learned in the past, dismantling and rebuilding a Commando engine can be done in a weekend. Most of the time is spent checking and cleaning up gasket faces.

Let's hope that it's something easily visible.

Keep us informed....and see you in France. That gives me an extra nine days to break something...

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Pretty sure I've found the cause of the engine vibration and noisy valve train. It was the timing side exhaust valve getting too big for the guide clearance, which was partly due to a slight build up of carbon and that the original clearance was too small. The clearance cold appeared to be zero so I ran a Flexhone through until there was approx. 0.002" clearance on both exhaust guides.

Previously checked primary drive and timing cover. Everything as I'd assembled it apart from worn pad on the primary chain auto adjuster. Clutch plates got a wash.

Well happy! I was working out cost of a new crank at possibly £1800 ! So saved myself a few quid there. Had the barrels off and all appeared sound except cam follower to tunnel clearance was 0.004", which ideally could be nearer 0.001". All good on rest of cylinder head too. Didn't see the point of going any further as crankcase oil came out clean with no bits of any kind. Sump mesh filter clean as well. Panic over. Thanks for the advise guys, see you in Austria and France!.....as long as my passport turns up.

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Trust that you are right aboutfinding the likely cause ofyour problem. A road test is going to be the proof. Vibration is generally caused by something coming loose or clearances disappearing. I would still be tempted to look at other possible causes. When my Commando engine started to give bad vibes it turned out that the primary chain had run dry and thrown several roller shells. How about your gearbox??? Is your rotor a firm fit on the crankshaft? Has your stator worked loose? Check the clearance between the two. How are you Isolastics? Are your rockers ok? What about the pushrods. Are the end caps firmly in place?

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Thanks for the reply Phil, insufficient clearance between valve and guide explains the tight spot when turning the engine over hot. Cold no tight spot. This would be enough to produce vibration as the crank turned it would momentarily meet with resistance for half a crank revolution out of every two complete revolutions. A bit like applying a brake on off very quickly. That's my theory although not very well explained.

I've not stripped the gearbox as there was no problem hot or cold. Everything else I have checked (inc. all the above) is fine. I agree a road test will be the proof.

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Completed 90 miles on the bike today and everything seems ok, hooray! Valve train is definitely on the noisy side and I think this is the cam followers to tunnel clearance at 0.004", or maybe the PW3 cam, but nothing to worry about. Happy the bikes back on the road.

 


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