Commando forks

Do you need a complete set of forks or just the stanchions, bushes, seals etc? Andover Norton will sell you all the correct bits and stanchions that have been made to the correct spec. Buy elsewhere and you might get something of a lower spec.

Michael, all parts are available, you can even buy them assembled from some suppliers. As David said, you can try Andover Norton alsoRGM and Norvil. They are not cheap although I have always found the pattern stanchionsto be of excellent quality to save a few quid..

Before you buy your forks you will need to decide what front brake set up you want and get the sliders to suit. If you intend to ride hard but go for a single discthen a fork brace is not a bad idea. The single frontdiscwas standard for 1974 but you have lots of choice these days. I would however, from experience, avoid a fully floating disc as these tend to rattle more than the engine!

Previously neil_wyatt wrote:

Michael, all parts are available, you can even buy them assembled from some suppliers. As David said, you can try Andover Norton alsoRGM and Norvil. They are not cheap although I have always found the pattern stanchionsto be of excellent quality to save a few quid..

Before you buy your forks you will need to decide what front brake set up you want and get the sliders to suit. If you intend to ride hard but go for a single discthen a fork brace is not a bad idea. The single frontdiscwas standard for 1974 but you have lots of choice these days. I would however, from experience, avoid a fully floating disc as these tend to rattle more than the engine!

I agree with Neil, Andover Norton etc, I have also found Mick Hemmings to be very helpful especially with upgraded discs and calipers. He is based in Northampton which is only 30 mins from me.

John Mc

Previously michael_curtis wrote:

Thanks, I am going to build them myself, I been looking at the three web sites and they roughly seem to be the same in price, but if in have them built it will cost me another £400 pounds I think ! I like the look of the 12th floating disc from Norvil With the AP racing calibre and the correct slider, I have been reading about the rattle from these, where does it come from, the disc, the caliber or both.

Hi Michael, the rattle is from the disc as it is floating, it tends to get worse with use and wear. I had one fitted to my T160 and it worked superb. My MK3 Commando has a standard disc but uprated master cylinder which works lots better than standard.(however not brilliant compared to my modern bikes obviously!)

Cheers, John Mc

Agreed John, I should have mentioned Mick Hemmings, the problem there is no web site to look at or compare.

An important point you make is having the original master cylinder slieved to make the brake work better without even changing the disc.

Michael, if you don't mind the rattles (Like on my Mk3) then the fully floating disc works well.

You might consider a Honda master cylinder, 14mm is standard on a CBR600 and has span adjustable lever. Fit a Honda LH handlebar switch with indicator/dip/horn while you are at it. Neat, functional, cheap. If I was building a Commando that had no forks, I would probably look at similar sized Jap forks with the benefit of modern damping. Depends on how important the originality of it is. But then if you are fitting floating disc etc. that's out of the window.

In my experience pattern stantions are crap, buy genuine and ensure they are. Pattern ones last 10 minutes and start to wear! Same for most stuff really, save a penny here and there and do the job again in no time.

Gino, your experience of pattern stanchions is different to mine. I have a couple of pairs still doing good service 20 and 14 years on. I dare say there are some poor examples but a credible supplier should know what is acceptable quality.

Perhaps your pattern Jubilee fork parts are not so good?