Clutch and exhaust lifter

Yes, there should be a large spring washer behind the nut. As for tightening, I put it in top gear and press hard on the rear brake lever. John

That's how mine is and it works fine with minimal resistance. John

If you get stuck give me a call. 07968 093240. I'm in the workshop most of the weekend. I'm in Hayle.

Boo

Locktite is the way to go in my book, and my lifter was stiff until I realised it was fouling the tank. Windmill is 5 mins from me, should have dropped in for a coffee!

Dan

I have a garage and spanners and am not afraid to use them!.... although I was prob at work when you passed! I don't know if you read but BP weren't categoric about their ultimate being E0 from Southampton, I've emailed them again for further clarification. In the meantime the esso garage in Chard, or Seaton may also sell E0 I've written to esso about that too!

ps the clutch nut used to undo regularly on my jubilee back in the day, I now use a rattle gun and Locktite!

Dan

There should be no hair pin loop in your cable George. It sounds like it has been fitted back to front. The inner cable nipple fits into the adjuster while the outer cable is captive in the recess on the end of the lifter arm, as per the photo from Barry. The cable then pokes straight out the front up to the de-comp lever on the bar.

Looks like mine's on backwards too but it works fine.

Previously Dan Field wrote:

Looks like mines on backwards too but it woks fine.

i,ve also had trouble with valve lifter cable being stiff and the odd one snapping.so some years ago i bought all the stuff off venhill cables and now make all the cables on my single so all have no tight bends and with the nylon inner sleeve are smooth.i don,t buy off the peg cable

tony.

Previously George Phillips wrote:

Made pic b&w. Hope it works. George

George the imageshownpreviously is correct. Think of it asmoving the exposedend of the control cablefrom oneend to the other.... What I do see onyour install is alot ofcableties... thebettersolution wouldbe rubber strapsasavailable (EBay) and used on machines of acertain period (mainly BSA. Theyallowthe cable tolay inalessrigidway, and take up changes in position due to steering movement etc. (You fit the strapto the framethen create a loop with the remaining tail to attach thecable to).

I may be wrong but It alsolookslike your reverse installedcablescrolls over theframe top tube whichwill alsoadd friction, keep them straight wherever possible and flare out just in front of the tank and close to the steering head (preferably inside theforkstokeep theflowniceup onto the bars without the possibility of trapping on thelockstops. Ifyour decompress lever is of the type under thebarsthismaynot be possible).I trust a shorter cable willbeprocured,but don't forget lockto lock freedom.Try laying thecable inthe position keepingcurves as wideradius as possible andmaintain the"horizontal" linebetween the twofixedends constant, thenattaching itwith said straps in appropriatelocations. Thebarrelspringcan becomespringbound if too much movementisgenerated. Make sure youhavetheadjustmentright tolift thevalve sufficiently to crack theseal anddecompress.

The more you constrainacontrol cable thehigher theoperatingresistance.

George, if you are still in doubt as to the advise we are giving you, have a look at the valve lifter cables the club supplies in the N.O.C. shop. In several pictures, the adjuster can be seen on the cable the correct way around, not like the one in your picture. Perhaps the club ones are arse about too.