Brake stiffening kit

The first thing i would do is fit oversize linings turned to fit the drum (which needs to be round and with a good surface) , this alone made my SLS 99 brake better than my TLS Atlas brake.Also ensure that you have a handle bar lever with a 7/8th inch measurment between the centers of the pivot and the cable nipple, you need to measure this.I also have a spare 3/8th chain spring link in the lever pivot to reduce the hand span and help getting effective force to the lever. This is a very old dodge and looks a bit naff to some (but many also like it). The orriginal levers supplied with the bike had 7/8th centers on the clutch and 15/16th centers on the brake!!.Most replacement levers give a poor leverage ratio , If there is any give (spongey) feeling in the system get this sorted .

I had the same problem with leverage on a 250 Ducati and ended up drilling new pivots to both levers finishing up with centers 1/2 inch appart and a light clutch and effective brake. Total clutch lift is reduced so extra effort needed to ensure even lift and flat plates, But it works.

Sorry!! memory failure, the brake lever centers measurement is 1and a sixteenth inches for the Norton but an upside down 7/8th clutch lever works much better!!.

Sorry!! memory failure, the brake lever centers measurement is 1and a sixteenth inches for the Norton but an upside down 7/8th clutch lever works much better!!.

The stiffening kit is Andover Norton part# 06-3410. According to my customers it practically doubles braking power. I myself have always declined to own a Commando that did not have it put in straight away, so can't truthfully comment on their statement. My current Signal Orange Roadster has it, and braking is pretty good for a drum brake- though, obviously, not on par with a disc brake sporting our other upgrade kit.

I have an SLS on my Atlas-engined 99. With decent linings (wot it has) it is a very good brake. My son's 88 had a dismal SLS front brake until I fitted desent linings. It is now has a pretty good brake too. I would surmise that sorting out the linings would be the first thing to do. Once you have a good brake, try one of Joe's stiffening kits. Gordon.

Previously wrote:

Again, thanks for the feedback! I have ordered the Stiffening Kit and when it arrives I will get the shoes relined as suggested above. Belt and Braces!! but you can't have too good brakes.... Levers are 7/8" as recommended.

BTW, I also have a '73 Bonneville with TLS brakes and it does seem to be better than the Dommie, so being basicly a 'Norton' man I want the best for the Dommie!.

I have have had this kit fitted on my 1968 Commando. As mentioned previously new shoes set up properly are very important but I would recommend having the hole in the drum, where the shaft goes through, fitted with a bush to take away the slop. This combined with a new heavy duty cable (reduced stretch) all adds up to a significant difference.

The bush modification is covered in the Old Britts website

The "Slop" is actually the clearance that allows the brake shoes to centralise in the drum when the brake is applied. The same effect can be had by floating shoes (Late SLS Triumph, Bendix) or even a floating lever pivot as found on some Royal Enfields and my friend's Puch Maxi.

The heavy duty cable is probably responsible for most of the improvement.