Any tips on how to remove exhuast lock ring?

Get the engine fully warmed up with a ride, keep the engine running and give it a try. The heat should loosen the grip and the engine vibrating should help shock it.

The rings often jam on the pipes,so unbolt the silencers from the frame and turn the whole system at the same time as the tool on the lockring ,any balance pipe will need to be undone before.

In my experience the correct tool is the largest Stillson wrench one can lay one's hands on

Previously keith_owen wrote:

....

I have the correct tool

Keith

I'd try heating the lock rings and cylinder head with an electric heat gun, e.g. 2000W rated. This has worked for me in the past. If you don't have one of these a hair dryer might do it.

Andy

My guess and from experience is the fins will dissipate the heat faster than the heat gun can get it in. Use a blow torch to get heat into the head then plenty of leverage on the nut spanner.

Your'e certainly using the best penetrating oil

I think you will need a bit more heat than can be supplied with an electric heat gun. The head will just wick it away. you probably need local heating of the nut with oxy-acetelyne. Otherwise carefully mark out, centre punch and drill down the edge of the nut, probably about 3 mm diameter. There is plenty of scope for allowing the drill to wander off into the alloy of the head so time spent in preparation is paramount.

If you fear heating aluminium too much....spread a smear of soap from a bar of hand soap near the heated area. The soap will turn black in advance of the metal getting too hot...I always do this when heating aluminium to high temperatures....it's very reliable and reassuring.....Les

You need a good heat source to warm up the head. Don't think a hair dryer would make much impression of a big lump of cold aluminium. A butane torch on the exhaust rings and a bit of patience might help. Plus lots of oil. If you can get the oil to bubble, the ring will shift.

Nice tip with the soap, here is another try tightening it slightly first, if you get some movement then you know it's not welded, distorted, cross threaded. Then ease it back and fore washing it with plenty of release oil, and of course assisting the movement by turning the header pipe till something frees up. Funny most riders talk about keeping the things tight!

j

I have been here. I left to soak in plus gas, applied daily for a week. I then used a correct fitting c spanner from RGM motors and rig it up applying load . I then heated it up using two heat guns set at max (650 deg C) I heated for about 15 mins each time and then left and came back to it. After heating for the third time while I was the other side of the garage there was the sound of dropped metal tools as the nut came free. I have used this method on several seized nuts and bolts. Patience helps. Heating expands the ally head and lets the plus gas penetrate.

Keith,

Check round the outside of the exhaust port to ensure the exhaust rings have not been locked in place by a screw etc.

If all that fails your last backup is the mighty hammer.

Warning; If you aren't confident with a hammer get some one who is.

You'll need at least a 2lbs hammer and a 1/2"metal dolly 5" or so long preferably of brass or aluminium. Hold the dolly against one of the thick lugs on the exhaust nut and taking great care one strike at a time give it a few good heavy knocks. It will move.

Dave

Even though it's not a Birmingham Norton, A 'Brummagem Screwdriver' may well be necessary

Well done Keith....it is such a wonderful feeling when you manage to loosen rigidly stuck on parts. The feeling of relief is of utter bliss. The last situation I had like this was to remove the two individual cylinders from a matchless G12 650cc twin, they felt welded in position....I genuinely thought I would never be able to free them without breaking the fins. Apparently they had never been removed before and even the manual warns they are difficult due to the very deep spiggotting. Eventually with lots of thought a method was devised and they pulled off nicely...my feeling of joy lasted for days......Where there's a will there is a way.

BTW...keep the plugs in the head and kick over the engine a few times to help loosen the head this usually breaks the gasket seal and if not tap the head up with a solid noggin of wood positioned to be knocked upwards in the exhaust port with a mallet...never tap any of the fins.....Good luck again.

Les

If the bike is running I loosten all the fixings and run it till the gasket blows.

Quote from above:.....I loosten all the fixings and run it till the gasket blows.

Not too loose ....you wouldn't want the push rods to jump out of the rocker ends and catch on the head............

Les

Christopher says to use "plus gas"

Can anyone tell me what this is? Or is it one of those English-English things that do not translate well to American-English?

You know, like braces and suspenders

Thanks

Mike

Previously michael_sullivan wrote:

Christopher says to use "plus gas"

Can anyone tell me what this is? Or is it one of those English-English things that do not translate well to American-English?

You know, like braces and suspenders

Thanks

Mike

Plus gas is a penetrating oil that is very good, not many places sell these days. There are probably others but so far it is the best I have found in over 40 years. I have found it penetrates better than WD 40. I use/ used WD 40 for cleaning muck and rust from protruding threads before I attempt to undo them.