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Amal 76 and Amal 276

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After recent conversations I thought my experience of the weekend might be of interest to anyone with mismatch between jet blocks and body...

My 16H runs well; but seems to be rather rich on small throttle openings. The pilot screw has no effect whatsoever.

It seems I have the earliest jet block (with holes around its base) but the latest body (with no holes round the base and also without the slanting-down air passage hole from the inlet down towards the lower face of the jet block).

The other week I bought a jet block at Kempton. This is the middle type (most WD16H maybe had these?) with the 1/4" hole sloping down from the inlet side face at about 45 degrees into the main central passage. I looked at all the other holes and they all seem to match my body apart from the missing 45 degree hole that my body does not possess.

So I attacked the body and drilled the missing hole. Put it all together, optimistically hoping to have a working pilot circuit at last.

Results were not what I hoped. At anything other than wide throttle, it won't run unless the air slide is fully down!

Anyway - I put the old block back in and it runs the same as it did before. So my new hole has (thankfully) not wrecked my carb.

So now what? I suppose I'd betterleave well alone even if it's not perfect. I see new 'type 276' are available at about £300, but that won't pay itself back and there's never any guarantee that it really will improve anything. I might just clean the 'new' block with more care and switch them round again but I thought it was clean. When I re-commissioned the bike after a 30-odd year lay-up, the symptoms I have (not running unless the slide was closed) were present until we took out the block and cleaned all the tiny holes. But at present it's all a mystery! All I do know is that the pilot screw is totally unnecessary.

Any ideas would be welcome!

Thanks

David Cooper

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Hi David

I have had my 1930 model 18 for some 30 years and during that time have probably fitted as many 276 and 76 carbs with various bodies and jets. All without getting it to run at all throttle openings properly. So last year I did buy a new 276, wonderful first kick starting hot or cold, perfect tick over and running, plus many miles to the gallon, Expensive yes but well worth it, just had to cut back on alcohol consumption for a while, no bad thing either, warm wishes John.

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Thanks, John

The bike actually runs well, starts easily hot or cold (easier than my electronic ignition Dommie whatever the weather)so I am not desperate to improve something that's no fun to ride - but it does seem to be very thirsty which is most of the reason for trying to get it to work properly. I put its thirstdownto side valve inefficiency - your Model 18 with new-fangled overhead valves should be a lot better anyway. Now the weather is looking a bit better, I think I'd better ride it rather than play with it in the garage.

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David, I seem to remember promising to post some images of a disassembled Norton type 276 jet block but I became a little grumpy with this forum's ability to host images and gave up.

The jet block with the diagonal hole is from the 'R' suffix 276 as fitted to just about everything except Nortons. Very early 276s didn't have that gusset under the throat but all the later castings did. On Nortons it wasn't machined as they had a flat back to the jet block.

I have no idea why your conversion didn't work though.

These are the three types of block that I've encountered.

Attachments jet-block-inlet-4-jpg
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Thanks Richard. I now have type 1 and type 2. Perhaps a type 3 will pop up next if I keep my eyes peeled. Maybe the pilot screw itself is wrong! I think I'll check the galleries in the block yet again. It amazes me how small the holes are and what a difference it makes if they are not correct.

I did consider drilling the outer holes round the bottom but that's a permanent external change I'd prefer to avoid.

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Previously richard_payne wrote:

David, I seem to remember promising to post some images of a disassembled Norton type 276 jet block but I became a little grumpy with this forum's ability to host images and gave up.

Richard it can be done!  photo IMG_0619_zps4s9gfdzp.jpg

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Thanks for all the texts and pics. I'mgoing to go for a new carb as I'm not happy with low speed running. Top end is fine - took it up to 60 yesterday with no bother at all. (Shame about the lack of paint on new carbs spoiling the looks but that's another issue).

I see Feked and others supply a Wassel version of the type 76 - with the body holes. Burlen only do the 276 (with the central hole in the block I believe). Part of me says "Buy British from Burlen" and part of me says "buy the correct looking one even if it is a 'reverse engineered' product from somewhere else". I suppose it's too much to hope that anyone has done back to back comparisons? If not, I'll play safe and go for Burlen.

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Sorry to drag this thread up again but I think an update might be in order. Last year I bought a new 276. It's not a total success. Issues include flooding through the overflow above the bottom nut. That has to happen if it is tickled too much. But pick up on blipping throttle in a gear change is non existent. After about 60 miles today I decided to lift the needle. It should be in the middle but is already at number 4 of 5 being nearly as high as it can go. I'll try one more lift maybe. Is that the right move?

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Sounds like a progression issue. The by pass drilling should come in when the slide is lifted a small amount,may be too small a pilot jet drilling or a blockage ,Also some bikes need bigger drillings if airflow speed thro the carb is down from the norm. I put a 289 from a thunderbird on to my 500 single and the drillings had to be opened out.

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Thanks Robert. I just took for a short run. The pilot screw has no effect whatsoever from fully in to 2 or 3 turns out. But it does start easily and tickover is faultless. I'm suspecting the slide but that's a costly and fiddly exercise. I'll just use it...

 


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