650SS Hagon shock sideways play?

Yes Tom,

You need to make up some spacers. Had the same issue with Hagon shocks on my slimline Model 50. Exactly the same issue as far as the shockers are concerned.

For my 650ssI bought some budget shocks that has a steel bush through the top eye. This bush was slightly too wide and I had to grind some off. Just make sure you put the spacers in the right place to keep your shocks true.

Slimline shocks should measure 11.9 inches centre to centre.

(Wideline 12.9 inches)

Previously tom_steele wrote:

thanks Neil Ill have to try and sort the spacers is mad when your paying all that money, and have to muck around

did think about taking the bushes out of my original ones but they look worse for wear now,

Thanks,

Tom

well My 1960 Norton Manxman 650 has 54 year old original Girling Shock absorber in and there is No side to side movement it all down to having the right spacers , but if your messing around with a cafe racer heres big chance that half the original part have been thrown away buy now, so there you have it , you need to get something at looks original to the machine, yours anna j

Screwfix sell stainless steel "repair washers" (what we used to call penny washers) quite cheaply and these will space the top mount and in addition stop the rubber bush moving sideways on its sleeve. 8mm or 10mm. Worth having a selection of these in your tool box and if you can stomach metric fittings on your Norton their stainless socket head screws are worth a look along with their nylock nuts also.

Tom,

The problem with the frame top mounting points is that they easily get bent in or out. I had the same problem with my 650 and the current 99 restoration, exactly the same thing.

If you have the original rear mudguard arrangement then you should have a solid spacer both through this part of the frame, next to the top shock mounting and between the mudguard and the frame. Same both sides. They are the total width you are looking for.

Looks like yours are stretched out slightly. On my 99, I need to open them slightly and this I'll do with an appropriate sized piece of wood.

Be careful because this metal bends easy so gently does it.

Hi everyone shes a totally original 650ss with original shocks that are worn out taking them off for the hagons put her right back to standard,

spoke to hagon and the bushings of them should be 24mm although I measured the frame with a vernier this morning darn camera didn't save the picture but it was 28. something mm on the top mount

popped them an email and Ill try re measure them tonight

Thanks,

Tom

well if your machines is original when did Norton start using Metric sizes .on the 650SS . As My machine is all in Imperial cycle thread or 26 tpi & Whitworth, and British Associated tread for the small treads .28mm = 1.1/8 of a inch and you did not say what have you measured, the length of the spacer or something else!! if you like to learn engineering you need your Fraction in imperial measurement .yours Anna J

Anna, I have carefully read the posts above. Nowhere does Tom, or anyone else, mention using metric threads. OK, he is using metric measurements, but we are now in 2014. Do you buy spares using pounds, shillings, and pence? Tom appears to be one of our younger members, he is asking for advice, not criticism.

I am still mystified as to what the original setup looked like.

My top mounts, on the frame proper, have a 1.15" gap, whereas the bush inner sleeve is only .75" wide, as is the upper tubular eye of the shock absorber.

Did the original shockers have eyes 1.15" wide, or were there composite bushes with the inner steel tube longer than the outer?

Could some kind person put up a close up photo?

PS Norvil offer p/n

Steve

Previously John Shorter wrote:

Anna, I have carefully read the posts above. Nowhere does Tom, or anyone else, mention using metric threads. OK, he is using metric measurements, but we are now in 2014. Do you buy spares using pounds, shillings, and pence? Tom appears to be one of our younger members, he is asking for advice, not criticism.

Spot on John, totally agree with you. No help at all, Just a chance to mention the blue bike again. If you can understand any of that person's posts anyway!

Totally agree David, no need for it. A joke is fine but sometimes it goes too far. Should be able to disagree without grief.

As for imperial, our old Norton'swere built imperial (Save for 14mm or 18mm spark plug threads and pistons ) If the USA can go to the moon using imperial measurementsthat should be good enough for most of us.

You know the Royal mint still produce Sovereigns and Crowns and I buy my fruit and veg by the pound in weight. Even my speedo's are in MPH. Thankfully, so are the road speed signs!

Originally the steel inner bushes were wider than the eye of the shock absorber. Sounds like Hagon have regressed a bit. When I bought Hagon shocks for my 99 a few years ago they fitted straight in, no spacers required.

Metric and Imperial. As school, everything was in SI metric units. Turned up at Uni to read Engineering to found they taught in Imperial units. Slugs and foot-poundals anyone? Nightmare.

P.S. Engineer's blue. The colour the air turns whenever the M word is mentioned.

Not an entirely fair criticism of another Norton enthusiast.If things were made in Imperial dimensions then that's the best way to measure them if you want to know what the design intent was.If I measure a thread and read 7mm - that's not much use if it is 9/32" cycle thread.

thank you David at lest someone with a brain knows what I am talking about, yours anna j

The bits I just bought from Norvil allow the inner sleeve to slide longitudinally in the rubber bush - so what restrains the top od f the shock absorber longitudinally?

Anybody out there with a Dominator AND a camera phone?

BTW probably every Norton ever made which had any electrics had some metric threads - British Association.

Steve

I came across this thread whie looking for new shock rubbers.

Attached photo of top fixing of what I believe to be original shocks off my 650SS. As can be seen from the pic, the rubber is longer than standard and extends one side.The spacer tube runs right through it (approx 28mm long)

Hope this helps

Trevor

Possibly like these on fleabay . - I think that these should be centred - my mistake. item no. 331222390855

Previously steve_marshall wrote:

I am still mystified as to what the original setup looked like.

My top mounts, on the frame proper, have a 1.15" gap, whereas the bush inner sleeve is only .75" wide, as is the upper tubular eye of the shock absorber.

Did the original shockers have eyes 1.15" wide, or were there composite bushes with the inner steel tube longer than the outer?

Could some kind person put up a close up photo?

PS Norvil offer p/n

08106RUBBER - BOTTOM OF REAR DAMPER - 8MM - SLIMLINE & WIDELINE

Steve

The bush for the top mount should be 1.125" (1 1/8") wide with a 3/8" hole and the bottom bush should be 0.750" (3/4") wide with a 5/16" hole.

The top shock mount attaches to the forward hole in the frame bracket and as mentioned in previous replies you may have to 'adjust' it back to standard. The rear position requires an 1.125 spacer tube in order to securely attach the rear mudguard bolt.

If I was Steve I would send the Hagons back if they can't sort them out, as they are not as advertised to fit a slimeline Norton.

The attached photo is of a pair of genuine Girlings.

Jim