I was out on my 1946 16H for the first time last night. I have had the bike since January and had a few problems to sort and it has had a good service.
All was going well and on the way back form delivering an Easter egg, it locked up. Rear wheel skid job. Did it earlier on on the ride, both times I was doing 55mph. I pulled the clutch and came to a holt. I got the bike back in neutral and couldn’t kick it over. I put it on its centre stand, it kicked over and started straight away.
I carried on an did about 20 more miles on her and she seemed fine. Didn’t go over 50mph. (Nothing to compare too as first time I have rode the bike and never a bike as old as this)
Does anyone have any experience of this sort of thing on a 16H? Are there common problems causing this sort of behaviour?
Goes through the gears well and clutch feels nice. (Far nicer than my 1953 BSA B33)
Thoughts welcomed
Kevin
Motor or drive lock up
- Log in to post comments
Nice Vulcan
Not on a 16H for me but same symptoms on an ES2..
The issue was carb set too weak on the air/ mixture screws and running far too hot.
As for 16H, it will depend on your gearing, mine (With Dolls head) runs most comfortable at around 40 mph in top. 55 is more like blowing up speed...Maybe I'm too sensitive?
Incidentally, has it not covered too many miles since last re bore? I have learned a long time ago that a 4 thou interference tolerance works to start with.
As Jonathon says: More info please.
- Log in to post comments
Interference?
... I think you mean clearance. And in my opinion .004" is far too tight - I use at least .006" - .007". Modern rebore places are not familiar with the generous clearances required by our old engines. I'd rather have a bit of piston slap than constant worry about it tightening up.
As a point of interest Edgar Franks suggested reboring when the original bore was worn by .007" - ie a clearance of around .012".
- Log in to post comments
Found the problem. Whoever…
Found the problem. Whoever rebuilt the engine blocked the oiling port at the base of the cylinder with gasket.
to say I am annoyed is an understatement!
- Log in to post comments
It might also be a bit…
It might also be a bit retarded. Bacon's Norton Singles lists 0.375" (3/16) but it should be at least 7/16", or it will run hot.
- Log in to post comments
That is a 4 point seizure,…
That is a 4 point seizure, piston overheating is the normal cause as these 4 points are where the alloy is thickness and hence expands the most on excess heating of the piston.
- Log in to post comments
Spot on John…
If that’s the worst it should clean up, but as John says that is more than rear oil feed issue. As Neil and Ian elude to, clearance could be low. Shiny oil is not synthetic I hope; it will never bed in with such high quality lube. Check your clearance, maybe a light hone and your good to go, but gently for a while…
Good to see, nice bike! Jon
- Log in to post comments
Spot on
Hi John / Jon,
Mineral oil the stuff to use in an old single. I use SAE50 in mine during warmer weather.
But I'm wondering if the lock up and damage would have happened @ 40 mph, I believe not.
Of course the blocked oil way didn't help and good that it has been identified.
A light hone so important at this stage. Good luck, Kevin.
- Log in to post comments
When you pulled the clutch did it coast to a standstill or was the wheel still locked? Are we talking motor or transmission. If the motor nipped up as you were running at a specific speed it may be a breaking in issue or lube issue. If the wheel remained locked it’s transmission or brake issue.
Putting it on the stand allows it to start sounds odd.unless the time elapsed caused the motor to cool enough to free up. What work did you do prior? Check colour of plug, oil discolouration, does it seize catastrophically or a degradation until the wheel drive train locks? Does the rear brake bind, is it hot? Some more background please.
J