Skip to main content
000000 000003 000006 000009 000012 000015 000018 000021 000024 000027 000030 000033 000036 000039 000042 000045 000048 000051 000054 000057 000060 000063 000066 000069 000072 000075 000078 000081 000084 000087 000090 000093 000096 000099 000102 000105 000108 000111 000114 000117 000120 000123 000126 000129 000132 000135 000138 000141 000144 000147 000150 000153 000156 000159 000162 000165 000168 000171 000174 000177 000180 000183 000186 000189 000192 000195 000198 000201 000204 000207 000210 000213 000216 000219 000222 000225 000228 000231 000234 000237 000240 000243 000246 000249 000252 000255 000258 000261 000264 000267 000270 000273 000276 000279 000282 000285 000288 000291 000294 000297 000300 000303 000306 000309 000312 000318 000321 000324 000327 000330 000333 000336 000339 000342 000345 000348 000351 000354 000357 000360 000363 000366 000369 000372 000375 000378 000381 000384 000387 000390 000393 000396 000399 000402 000405 000408 000411 000414 000417 000420 000423 000426 000429 000432 000435 000438 000441 000444 000447 000450 000453 000456 000459 000462 000465 000468 000471 000474 000477 000480 000483 000486 000489 000492 000495 000498 000501 000504 000507 000510 000513 000516 000519 000522 000525 000528 000531 000534 000537 000540 000543 000546 000549 000552 000555 000558 000561 000564 000567 000570 000573 000576 000579 000582 000585 000588 000591 000594 000597 000600 000603 000606 000609 000612 000615 000618 000621 000624 000627 000630 000633 000636 000639 000642 000645 000648 000651 000654 000657 000660 000663 000666 000669 000672 000675 000678 000681 000684 000687 000690 000693 000696 000699 000702 000705 000708 000711 000714 000717 000720 000723 000726 000729 000732 000735 000738 000741 000744 000747 000750 000753 000756 000759 000762 000765 000768 000771 000774 000777 000780 000783 000786 000789 000792 000795 000798 000801 000804 000807 000810 000813 000816 000819 000822 000825 000828 000831 000834 000837 000840 000843 000846 000849 000852 000855 000858 000861 000864 000867 000870 000873 000876 000879 000882 000883
English French German Italian Spanish

Chrome Removal

Forums

Hi the previous owner of my bike (850 mk1 Interstate) had chromed the rear brake plate. Unfortunately through the ravages of time, this has become pock marked with little rust devils poking their way through to the surface.

I think the best thing is to return this to its original black finish, but the question is 'what is the best way to remove the chrome' so that I can paint it again, bearing in mind that I want to do this safely at home. My concern is that even if there was a paint I could use to just paint right over it, the rust would break through eventually.

Any thoughts, anyone please?

Thanks,

Keith

 

Permalink

The best way is to have a plater remove it electrochemically - otherwise it's emery wheels and lots of elbow grease. Grit blasting will help but can be very aggressive.

Permalink

Hmmmm.............

that's what I had feared. The nearest plating works  is not nearby and neither are they cheap. maybe if I could flat it down, grind out the rust with a flapper wheel and then etch prime it, I might be able to paint over the chrome?

Anyone tried this?

Keith

Permalink

A good powder coating firm should be able to clean off the rust and coat the wheel in a nice controlled environment to prevent any damp/moist air getting on the 'cleaned' surfaces.

Don't know if it helps but it's another option

John

Permalink

I have a similar problem on an AMC wheel I am having built, I believe you can remove it by reverse electrolysis if that’s the right word but haven’t investigated yet. Otherwise it’s paint or powder coat for me.

dan 

Permalink

Having read how to do it .....

 Perform a reverse electroplating. Chrome is affixed to metal through the process of electroplating, in which electric current is used to bind chrome to the metal at a molecular level. By reversing this process, chrome plating can be removed extremely effectively. However, doing so can be extremely dangerous. Not only does the process involve a live electric current, but also produces several toxic, carcinogenic chemicals as products of the reaction. Hexavalent chromium, for instance, is one extremely dangerous product.[3] Thus, this process is best left to professionals - the steps below are for informative purposes only.

  • Mix chromic acid and sulfuric acid in water in an approximately 100:1 ratio. For example, you may add 33 oz. (936 grams) of chromic acid crystals and .33 oz. (9.36 milliliter) of sulfuric acid fluid to distilled water to make 1 gallon (3.79 liter). Mix solution in a proper immersion tank used for electroplating, materials testing, and/or chemical treatments.
  • Heat the solution. Keep the temperature of the solution from 95 to 115 degrees Fahrenheit (35 to 46 degrees Celsius) for decorative chrome. Keep temperature from 120 to 150 degrees Fahrenheit (49 to 66 degrees Celsius) for hard chrome.
  • Run a negative charge from a DC power source through the chromic plating solution via wire.
  • Attach the positive cathode to object intended for stripping and submerge the object into the solution. The positively charged exterior chrome metal will be pulled from the object.
  • Rinse object in agitating running water, then rinse again. Have waste products professionally processed and disposed of.

more here : https://m.wikihow.com/Remove-Chrome-Plating

I May use abrasive methods! 

 

Dan

Permalink

Send it to a plating shop and have them do it - it should not be any where near the cost of plating because there is much less work and materials involved. As noted by Dan in the above post , chrome plating and it’s reverse produces some VERY unhealthy stuff.

Removing it mechanically will be very laborious and possibly damaging to the plate itself .  I can’t stress this enough - let the plating shop do it .

Permalink

My local paint-man declined to take on my slightly rusty Chromed front brake plate for a make-over.  Instead he suggested the following process to remove the old Chrome.  Carried out in a very well ventilated open area. ie. ....outside.!!!

Disolve 1Kg of Caustic Soda (Sodium Hydroxide) in 2 Gals (9 L) of Water. Use a plastic container , liquid proof gloves and a good mask.

Connect Positive Electrode to item needing de-plating.  Negative to a piece of  clean Mild Steel. Dunk both Electrodes into the solution.

Connect the Electrodes to a 12V power source and watch for bubbles. Once there are bubbles the process is working. Leave the power on for just a few minutes.

Then switch off the power, remove the item and wash in clean water. Dry asap.

My recommendation would be to use a professional service on the grounds of Health & Safety

 

Permalink

Hi All,

Thanks for the input.

New plates are readily available from ANIL but they are not cheap. Hmmm...........trouble is that apart from the rust, the plate is fine, since even the bush for the cam is easily replaceable.

Need to think about this.

Keith

Permalink

My bike's PO removed chrome from various objects in the way Phil describes because he preferred the appearance of the underlying nickel on vintage vehicles.  Passed away last year aged 95.

Permalink

Gateros do reasonable priced kits which can de-plate and plate metal parts.  Chrome removal is as Phil describes, but I don't think it's really necessary to remove all the chrome before painting.  Hand sand it or use a sanding disc to get any loose chrome off then use some trusty Kurust or a rust curing paint of your choice.  The old grey Kurust from the 1960s was best as it was acid-based, but there are many products around.  Halford has bucket-loads!  Another old favourite is Jenolite. 

Once the rust is treated you can use a metal primer then a primer-filler to fill the pock marks.  Expect to have to use a few coats of paint and buff it down in between coats.  You could spray on black Hammerite gloss as a finishing coat, if that's the colour you want, or any decent solvent-based paint. Never EVER use water-based!

Permalink

In my past employment I was involved with material inspections at a 'top secret' nuclear establishment. Part of the job was corrosion assessment of various metals used by our main customer. One of the more useful and common rust curing materials used on site was a dilute Phosphoric acid solution liberally applied and left for 24 hours or more after loose surface rust had been removed. The phosphoric acid neutralises the rust through the ion exchange process and applies a thin coating of phosphor to the neutralised metal. Wash off residue in clean water, no need to rub it down and, apply a good quality coating material. As long as you do the work in a nice warm location to prevent atmospheric condensing on the treated surface it should be ok.

John

Permalink

If you intend to display it (either as a correctly re-finished museum exhibit, or as some kind of custom piece) then professional refinishing is in order.

If you "merely" want to ride it, then Jenolite/Kurust/etc., plus painting, as described in other contributions sounds ample.

Permalink

Have a look at 

eBay item number:

254511588677

£20. Any good?

Looking  up 'Commando brake plate' reveals that yours isn't he only chromed one!

Regards,

George

Permalink

I used Hammerite Gloss Black on both my front brake plate and the fork sliders. The brake plate had been previously Chrome plated and most of this was either ground off or removed with a Jenolite wash. I then added a layer of Etching Primer and used the Hammerite as the top coat. This all worked well and the finish looked good has been quite durable.

The fork sliders received a coating of a standard Primer followed by the Hammerite. These also looked good to begin with but soon began to show chip and scuff marks. The Primer clearly has not bonded with the Aluminium. I need a Plan B to sort the finish of these sliders out.

Permalink

Hi,

Sorry for not getting back; I have been immersed in making a new wiring loom since the insulation on the original wiring had gone brittle.

I intend to use the bike - not exhibit it. I have plenty of jenolite, hammerite and other noxious paints so I shall rub it down, jenolite it and then paint it. As long as I can get a good adhesion to the remaining chrome that's all I need.

Thanks for all of the input. Most encouraging.

 

Thanks and BR,

Keith

Permalink

Hammerite supply a "Special Metals Primer" for non-ferrous metals, including aluminium.

Ian McD

 

Norton Owners Club Website by White-Hot Design

Privacy Policy