650 SS Commissioning process

That is looking very nice.
You say you have not put it into gear. How about making sure the back wheel is off the ground and going through the gears that way?
Assuming you have checked everything appears to be where it should be, my best advice would be to pull away in first, then stop!. It is always more important to be able to stop than to go.
Then whatever you do, do it gently and with caution. 

I am sure it will be great, enjoy.

And good advice from Tony.

It's always a point of trepidation hen you take the machine out for the first time.  As above stopping is as important as starting.  

• Open the throttle fully to ensure it closes cleanly, moving the bars to ensure cable is not fouled.
• Before you take to the road recheck tyre pressures, surprising how they can leak down if the valves have been out and not spun .
• Once it's running...
• ensure you can select gear and then find neutral, first and second and back to neutral.
• Again, turn the handlebars from side to side to ensure the throttle is not affected.
• Make sure you can stop the motor either with key or kill button.
• Warm the motor well before you set off.
• Make sure the rear brake lever is not set too high, you don't want to be locking up the back end when you react.
• Do some manoeuvres in your area, stop, start, left and right circles. Accelerate, decelerate, brakes should be rubbed up under power to clear the surfaces before braking the machine to a stop. Listen and identify abnormal sounds
• Now go around the machine checking for leaks, loose items, clearances to mudguard when suspension is loaded, chain tension is set right.

If all looks good take it for a longer run, paying attention to the machine more so than the journey. Let someone know where you intend to go, take a few adjustment tools and your mobile phone.
 The acid test is the next days run.  When you bring the bike out for the second day, check for floor stains, fuel, oil etc. then go around the machine and check all is secure, exhaust system nuts and joints esp, then start her up.
All well? Off you go for a few heat cycles then do spanner checks weekly until you stop finding movement.  

Enjoy it, she's a beaut!

Looks like you are missing some key safety components ..   Front mudguard stays.

Kit,
I'd also like to mention retorque the head and exhaust roses after the first 3 start up and cool down cycles, then after about 500 miles, you will get a feel for it when the nuts are no longer loose.

Remember to check the tappets if you need to do up the nuts more than about half a turn. Definitely check them after 500 miles.

Don Anson 
Melbourne. 

Mention above of 500 miles is very apt as this Norton 650SS was dispatched from Bracebridge to the dealer Alec Bennett in Southampton. Bennett's had a long association with Norton motorcycles and supported the local Thruxton 500 mile race each year until the late 70s and possibly 80s.
This 650SS was from one of the last batches of Nortons built at Bracebridge.  By January 1963 the factory had shut down and production transferred to AMC at Plumstead/Woolwich. 

Of possible interest......the very last Nortons constructed, at Bracebridge, were a large batch of 122SS, fifteen Model 20 Atlas, three Manx Singles and two Navigators. A single Atlas engine was also shipped off to McCandless in Belfast.  I wonder what the brothers did with that motor???

If you want to try putting it in gear without the front brake you can put the front tyre against a wall

I trust you checked details against the paperwork.  I had a model 50 slimline in a 650SS coded frame. All details matched the paperwork but the18 code was on the frame.  Many are built up in similar fashion to yours so it doesn't make it any less of a joy. There were no TLS brakes on this age of machine. When you do your checks, remove that green wire around the footrest. Looks like you may have held up the brake pedal with it during assembly. Is the rear mudguard split at the tail? Intentional or progressing fault?  Grips are with controls for lights and indicators, are you wired for indicators? (I see something on the headlamp ear). A good feature for modern riding.
cheers
Jon

Silencers unless well secured have a tendency to work loose,and i prefer to have them secured by a substancial pillion rest , which acts as a tell tale by revolving if loose . The small bolt fitted will give little  warning before it falls off.

I hope all the others are in situ. 

Edit, the top rear stud appears to be present.

Don't run it with a crankcase stud missing.