Arthritis now causing some discomfort with my clutch hand when riding mk3,i have fitted the Venhill featherlight cable and it is routed correctly and too be honest probably best i have had but still caused some pain when in traffic ,so big question HYDRAULIC CLUTCH as much as i like to keep standard main priority is riding it so any thoughts welcomed
Have you checked your stack height in your clutch? Getting it set correctly can make a big difference to the amount of force required to pull the clutch lever.
While a hydraulic clutch activation will probably be smoother, I don't think you'll get much benefit over new cables and adjustment - as you have done.
If you have a good range of movement in your hand I would look at changing the mechanical advantage at the lever, i.e. spread the load over a longer level pull. So longer lever, perhaps with a dogleg. Modification to the pivot to cable end distance and angle. Something you can easily explore by slipping a piece of pipe over the standard lever.
i have fitted a cnw hydraulic clutch which is smoother to operate but not a
great difference to a well set up cable option, i am based in the reading area you a welcome to check it out. i know andover norton sell one not sure of there prices. but i would say try and check one out first or spend some time checking cable routes and alignment of clutch arm, and plates, i think rgm might sell a extended clutch lever holder.
RGM sell a clutch perch for the pre MK3 which moves the lever inward so your fingers are near the end of the lever reducing effort but increasing finger travel, would need the MK3 lh switch gear to be changed or an adaptor machined.
Cheers for all your replies,from what i can see there doesn't seem to be a big thumbs up for the hydraulic clutch
I will soldier on
Katherine was spot on about clutch stack height. If you haven’t already sorted this a good start is to swap one of the 2mm metal clutch plates with a 3mm one from RGM. Together with the lined cable this really made a difference to my heavy clutch.
cheers Steve i have ordered the RGM 3mm plate to give it a try,is there a specific way to fit or does it just go to replace the final plate
Hi Peter. Just replace one of your 2mm metal plates. I replaced my worst one. I don’t think it matters where in the stack you put the 3mm one as long as you follow the usual sequence. Good luck!
I swapped a 2mm plate for a 4mm one from RGM and it made a really big difference in making the clutch easier to pull in. The large circlip just fits in the grove on the clutch basket now. Ive been on some long and short rides and given it some welly uphill with no slip at all. Wish i had done it years ago. Ive still got the old clutch cable on at the moment but will fit the new one i bought with the thicker plates at some time. Have you sorted yours now Peter and is it better ?.
what it does is , hopefully, get the diaphragm spring to activate within the optimum range, where clamping is still enough, but force at lever is minimised: so as you pull, spring goes “ over centre” fairly soon, and from then on force is less.
what about the surflex friction plates"
Steve,just to let you know fitted the RGM 3mm plate as advised now bob on,my mitt now copes well with the clutch movement,thanks for the advice