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Electronic Ignition?

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I am considering an "electronic ignition", similar to the types I used in the late 1970s on my Bedford CA Dormobile and my Mark 10 Jaguar. They had a separate electronic box and worked OK, until the Bedford one filled with water!  I think that one of them (It WAS a long time ago!) used existing points and it claimed to reduce recession.

This type doesn't use points or condenser , which should be a good thing I reckon.

They are here - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Positive-Earth-Electronic-Ignition-Kit-for-Lucas-18D2-Twin-Cylinder-Distributor/123640544138

Has anyone has used something like it with the Lucas 18D2?

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I am using a Boyer points assist unit on my 99 with 18d2.Good strong spark ,Still have to ocasionaly adjust points . Simple to time and maintain. Cheap to buy.  I also use a similar one from Pazon on another machine.  I have tried to fit similar system to the powerspark  but could not get it to work on the 99.  No idea why , but in retrospect would not want to have to mess with timing disc and strobe . Did not find the sellers much use either. Others may have had better luck.

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Lionel.  I use a Boyer micro in my 18D2 distributor on my dommi.  The distributor needed slightly modifying (dead easy) and this electronic ignition does away with the rubbishy advance and retard, but it's nearly 4 times the price of the one you've listed!

If your advance/retard works well, then this seems like an excellent option and certain worth a punt.

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If you go for the Powerspark check that it does not make your rotor arm hit the cap. I would also insist that they agree to a full refund if you are not satisfied (for whatever reason)..You may have to fork out for new carbon leads ,plug caps coil and dump the 2MC ! Somewhere in that lot is the reason I could not get it to work.  The Boyer box just worked with no issues. Powerspark in the junk box.

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... Boyer points assist system on a unit Triumph 500 and it worked well. I fitted a switch to allow it to revert to conventional points and it idled faster and more smoothly with the Boyer system.

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Another option, I make and sell an 18D2 kit based on Boyer Bransden parts and amplifier. This does away with the advance/retard mechanical mechanism and the rotor gubbins (and the cows udder) you can fit the 18D1 cap. This does need 12V and twin coils but then you have removed any variation in timing between the two cylinders. But the 18D2 is not modified. (can be returned to original if you really must)

Thanks Robert.  Are you saying you used one but it didn't work so you junked it?  As I said, I used similar on vehicles in the 1970s, but not these as they probably weren't around then.  The significant difference between this and every other electronic system I've seen is the price.  I know it needs silicone leads - which isn't a bad thing as I changed to them to good effect on my Daimler XJ6.  A high performance coil isn't a bad thing either and at less than £20 for a 6 volt one it doesn't exactly break the bank.

Your point about getting an agreement to a refund is a good one.  If it breaks I would expect that anyway.

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It was a Powerspark. I made 3 or 4 attempts to fit it over some months, Going back to the points between attempts.Sent it back twice at my costs to be checked . They sent me a damaged 2nd hand one back. I had to modify it to fit .They refused to refund. When I asked about Dwell time for coil saturation ,they said it was "a sort of magic" , Pathetic.  Waste of time talking to them. The problem could have been just not compatible with something on my bike.  The Boyer worked ,no issues at all, if there were issues Mr Boyer would have sorted them.

Thanks Robert.  They obviously just sell them on without knowing too much detail - so that's not impressive when you need answers to technical questions. 

As I said, I used two different units back in the 1970s so I have no clear memories of how well they worked or whether they made any significant difference.  One was in my 1969 Bedford CA and the other in a 1966 Jaguar Mk.10 (My second Jag).  These units had a separate electronic box of tricks and I mounted the Bedford one under the bonnet right at the top front because that was the most convenient place.  It gave me trouble on a trip to see friends in Woking (I'm in Southampton) and when I looked at it I found it was full of water!  So not a waterproof box then!  I fixed it by just draining it out I think.  Then went back to standard points and condenser.

Their operation does sound over-simple with just a rotating magnet to set the dwell and spark timing.  As I recall it was called a "reluctor".   All lost in the mists of time now!

It will be quite some time before I am anywhere near ready for it but it's something to think about.  The mainstream electronic kits seem overly expensive and I don't know it they are worth t he money over the standard coil ignition.  I'm afraid haven't done any research on them but I assume that they do away with points and condenser - the two main causes of trouble?

My reasons for changing my Norton to Magneto were because of problems with the distributor, which could relatively easily be fixed now.  Plus the fact that I had a mag from my old 88 - and still have it!

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Will ultimately come down to how much you intend to use it. If your plan is a LOT of miles each year and/or you really don't like 'tinkering', then electronic is the way to go as it is fit and forget. If you are only going to do 500 miles, then you might as well stay with the points set-up and check it once a year. Set properly, and providing the dizzy is in reasonable condition (and electronic won't necessarily cure that if it isn't) the points gap and timing check should be ok for 1000 miles at a time, probably even longer with a points assist unit as mentioned by others.

Me? When I got my Norton 22 years ago, the mag on it wasn't the correct one (manual advance) and was dead. The cost of another mag and reconditioning it made the Boyer equipped 'mushroom' a bargain. Add into the equation that I knew nothing about mags if they went wrong whereas I did/do about electronic controlled sparks, it was for me a no brainer. It's still there and starting is usually first kick.

At the end of the day, it is your money and choice, but Roberts comments would make me steer away from the one you mentioned at the beginning.

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Over the years I have had many EI  systems on cars and bikes .They always made the spark better  often just a stronger spark compensated for other issues and made a rough hard to start old banger  with a half dead battery start instantly and purr.  Getting rid of points is a big plus. I have always thought that there is a trade off though. The early Boyer fitted to the "Mushroom" on an atlas made it far easier to start but Killed a lot of the low speed urge with its slow advance curve and made timing  more difficult. Strangely it does not suffer the usual kickback with a low battery (2MC helping?). A Pazon assist unit made a stupidly race tuned Ducati just about usable on the road ,firing up well and smoothing out holes in the carburation.The 99 with Boyer assist will fire up first kick ,very helpful with spine problems. I had hoped the Powerspark would see the points off. But in the end riding was more important than fiddling and frustration.

There might be a Mr Boyer but he doesn't make electronic ignitions. Ernie Bransden makes/designs the well known products. In fact fact the Boyer name was of a Triumph Racing team in the late 70s and the name is used by Ernie.

One point from all this is, hopefully buying a product from a person/company who understands the product. Unfortunately there are a lot of companies in all walks of life that will sell but know nothing. And of course you compound the issue when you fit 21st century 'clever stuff' onto 19th Century vehicles!!

 


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