tri spark ignition timing set.

I have a Tri Spark with the red LED indicator yet to be installed in my Combat so I am interested to follow how you get on with this post.

My first thought was are you taking into account the rev range at the time that you are taking a strobe reading. As I understand it the Tri Spark has an auto advance function so will be firing at the appropriate timing moment. 

They say the maker is very helpful with queries.

Just don’t ride it with timing out by 20 degrees!

With a wasted spark ignition like the Tri-Spark (and most other electronic ignitions) both cylinders receive a spark at the same time (your two coils are wired in series, and effectively act as one)

So, it doesn’t matter if you time off the left or right cylinder.

The static timing is supposed to be a rough guide to get the bike running - at which point you dial it in accurately with a strobe light.

Your Tri-Spark is still doing its wizardry with advance/retard through to 3,500rpm - I strobe at 4,000rpm to ensure that it’s settled down and the timing mark isn’t dancing.

Tri-Spark very recently revised their setup guide to accommodate a more accurate method of statically timing it.

This is exactly for the reason you have discovered - the LED comes on way too early, resulting in static timing that is many degrees out.

Their updated guide (which can be found here) addresses that to a certain extent.

While the new guide covers the updated TRI-0006 you can apply the same logic to the older TRI-0005 as the trigger is the same.

Don’t forget to run a red cable up to your coil(s) from the Tri-Spark - it will give you a more reliable spark and more trouble-free life.

Some notes that may be of interest can be found here.

Make sure you are using the correct mark on the alternator rotor in relation to the 28 degree position on the timing scale, Set this by turning the engine forwards only, then set up the tri spark using the latest notes as above, V2 July 2023 - these cover the Tri spark version you have, the most important thing other than position when setting up the Tri Spark is the distance from the magnetic rotor to the plate. If the distance is too much then the bike will start but will rev out as the revs rise with a lot of mis firing. There are rotors that sit closer or further away from the plate that enable you to achieve the correct gap. 

With hundreds sold and fitted, I have only had one with a gap problem, the other issues were incorrect coils or crudely setting up the system. 

A correctly set up Tri Spark should be an absolute doddle to start, in some case the engine should run before the kickstart reaches its end of stroke. 

Hi Ashley, last year I fitted a Boyer mk4 to my 750 commando (reconditioned Combat engine now with std cam and the regular non-Combat compression ratio), timing set with a strobe. It starts as well as it ever has, usually on second kick from cold, occasionally third kick. This is after tickling the carbs until petrol appears, no use of the ‘choke’ (I’ve never found it beneficial). Do you think if I were to fit a tri spark it would start first kick (which at my age would be welcome!)?