Rotor nut and clutch nut

WD40 wont be much good but more heat, usually until spit sizzles,can't be specific with an actual temp., should do it. Also try using a socket and tommy bar to create more leverage. It would be a good idea to remove the alternator stator prior to heating unless already done,

Simon.

Hi Malcom. I would not use much heat as it could demagnetise the rotor. The touble you are having is made worse by the fact that you are using the transmission to hold the drive steady. As is always the case, there will be a certain amount of springness with this method. If you want to continue using the rear brake method make sure you have selected top (fourth) gear as this will create less torque to the rearwheel and the brake can hold it better. I would get someone to hold the brake on for you whilst you fit on a good tight fitting ring spanner to the nut. Preload the chain tensions anti clock wise and with a decent hammer strike the end of the spanner as fast, hardand accurately as you can. This should start to shift it.

A better way to lock the primary is to cut a length of metal (brass prefered) to span diagonally from the bottom right of the drive sprocket to the top left of the clutch drum. You need to get it locked into the teeth. I am assuming from memory theouter covercentre fixing boss does not get in the way. As the two cogs turn in opposite directions this method should lock up the primary more solidly and this will hep with the sudden impact teqniques.

Otherwise I would use a High Speed Dremmel saw to cut into the nut to release it. Not easy as you don't want to cut the shaft thread so you will have to do the final splitting with a chisel.

Good luck

Les

Just to come back, Malcolm, on the primary drive lock up,I heard from fellow NOC member Paul Wilson, that the special tool is available from Andover Norton:

http://www.andover-norton.co.uk/SI%20Service%20Tools.htm

You might even want to make one up yourself?

Let us know how you get the nut off please.

Les