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RGM clutch nut with pushrod oil seal

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I have a Mk II with a belt drive primary and have found gearbox oil has migrated up the clutch push rod and onto the clutch. So I have bought the RGM clutch nut with an oil seal, their part number 040373M.

Has anyone fitted this who can help me out here? When I fit this nut, the push rod operating range as left when I dismantled means it does not emerge from the clutch nut oil seal until the clutch lever is fully pulled back. Without the RGM nut fitted, the push rod operating range is about 5mm to 8mm protusion from the end of the mainshaft. I can't screw the RGM nut on any further because the oil seal bottoms out on the end of the mainshaft. In factI havehad to fit additional clutch nut washers to be able to tighten the clutch centre.

I just can't see how this nut could ever work. Any ideas anyone please?

David

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I have this nut installed on my MKII (1972 Roadster) without the problem mentioned by you. First and obvious conclusion would be that your push rod is shorter than normal/original. Under normal conditions this can be compensated by the adjuster nut in the clutch pressure plate/diaphragm spring. But when you add the sealing nut, the total lenght may become inadequate.

That said, I have in my possession two versions of the sealing nut. One bought from AndoverNorton is very shallow only adding about 5mm to the width. The other, which I think is from RGM/Norvil is three times as wide adding about 15mm to the width. Ihave the AN version installed. If you are trying to fit the R/N version this will add to your problems. Try to find out if you have the shallow version or attack the problem by fitting a longer push rod.

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Previously wrote:

I have this nut installed on my MKII (1972 Roadster) without the problem mentioned by you. First and obvious conclusion would be that your push rod is shorter than normal/original. Under normal conditions this can be compensated by the adjuster nut in the clutch pressure plate/diaphragm spring. But when you add the sealing nut, the total lenght may become inadequate.

That said, I have in my possession two versions of the sealing nut. One bought from AndoverNorton is very shallow only adding about 5mm to the width. The other, which I think is from RGM/Norvil is three times as wide adding about 15mm to the width. Ihave the AN version installed. If you are trying to fit the R/N version this will add to your problems. Try to find out if you have the shallow version or attack the problem by fitting a longer push rod.

Thanks Tom, I have looked into this further and think that the two products you have identified are completely different.

The RGM nut is 19.7mm long and the threads are cut to a depth of 11.5 - 12mm. This means the minimum it will add to the end of the mainshaft is 8mm and my pushrod operating range os 5 - 8mm! This nut is intended to replace the standard nut. Looking at the Norvil website, item 068833 appears very similar as you suggest.

There is a BritCycle product that is an add-on to the end of the mainshaft, whilst the standard nut is still in use. This nut/seal is only 3.6 mm thick, just engaging with the last two threads of the shaft. I have attached a picture from their website. Is this like the AN item? They don't seem to show it on their website.

I've sent an email to RGM for their comment. I'm a bit miffed as I've spent about £22 on this item!

Attachments 040373A006.jpg
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The picture you link to shows the exact nut I'm using! I may be wrong about the supplier, even if AN is the one that springs to mind! Anyway you seem to havenarrowed down the options, only remaining problem will be to get your money back and/or get hold of the shallow version. Let's hear how it goes.

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Previously wrote:

Andover Norton don't offer this nut. We only list the standard production item.

Thanks Joe, I just had an email from Nick Hopkins today to the same effect.

Anyone know if there is a UK supplier that does this product? Otherwise I can see I'll be importing one from BritCycles.

thanks all

David

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Previously wrote:

Previously wrote:

Andover Norton don't offer this nut. We only list the standard production item.

Thanks Joe, I just had an email from Nick Hopkins today to the same effect.

Anyone know if there is a UK supplier that does this product? Otherwise I can see I'll be importing one from BritCycles.

thanks all

David

Norvil do this mod, I've got one fitted to my 73 750 and it was fairly straight forward, I can't give you any dimensions but it must just be onto the shaft by 2-3 threads and held by locktite.

Mac.

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Previously wrote:

Previously wrote:

Andover Norton don't offer this nut. We only list the standard production item.

Thanks Joe, I just had an email from Nick Hopkins today to the same effect.

Anyone know if there is a UK supplier that does this product? Otherwise I can see I'll be importing one from BritCycles.

thanks all

David

I got mine from Norvil, it's a very thin item and screws on by 2-3 threads at most, I can't give you any dimensions but I've not had to modify anything. (1973 750)

Mac.

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Previously wrote:

Previously wrote:

Previously wrote:

Andover Norton don't offer this nut. We only list the standard production item.

Thanks Joe, I just had an email from Nick Hopkins today to the same effect.

Anyone know if there is a UK supplier that does this product? Otherwise I can see I'll be importing one from BritCycles.

thanks all

David

I got mine from Norvil, it's a very thin item and screws on by 2-3 threads at most, I can't give you any dimensions but I've not had to modify anything. (1973 750)

Mac.

Thanks Mac. I have since discovered that Dave Comeau (dynodave@atlanticgreen.com) makes this nut and sells direct. So I have ordered one. The price is about £15 although I dare say I will have to pay duty and VAT on that. It's a shame only Norvil seem to sell it over here, I refuse to spend my money with them so am quite happy to order from the USA instead.

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Norvil seem to be the British agents for Dyno Dave Comeau. Dave was at the NOC International rally in Upstate New York last year, and he indicated that he had a good working relationship with Norvil. He especially mentioned his electric starter kit.

Previously wrote:

Thanks Mac. I have since discovered that Dave Comeau (dynodave@atlanticgreen.com) makes this nut and sells direct. So I have ordered one. The price is about £15 although I dare say I will have to pay duty and VAT on that. It's a shame only Norvil seem to sell it over here, I refuse to spend my money with them so am quite happy to order from the USA instead.

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What's the advantage of such a nut over cutting a groove in the pushrod and fitting an O-ring? A ready-grooved rod would surely be cheaper to make if a lathe isn't available. Or am I missing something?

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Previously wrote:

What's the advantage of such a nut over cutting a groove in the pushrod and fitting an O-ring? A ready-grooved rod would surely be cheaper to make if a lathe isn't available. Or am I missing something?

David, I contacted Norman White to ask if he sold the nut. He replied he didn't and told me he usually cuts a groove as you describe. Sounds fine to me but I don't have a lathe handy so the nut is an easier option.

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Previously wrote:

What's the advantage of such a nut over cutting a groove in the pushrod and fitting an O-ring? A ready-grooved rod would surely be cheaper to make if a lathe isn't available. Or am I missing something?

On his website, Dave Comeau comments;

2. Others have cut a groove in the 6mm rod for an o-ring. The inside of the mainshaft is VERY rough for sealing to an buna-n oring. They probably don't last long before they get eaten up.

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i have an rgm nut but have not yet rebuilt the rest ofclutch to see if it works or has same problem you have but i am following this with interest. Firstly all parts i have so far (fingers crossed) fit just fine so why should yours not have you contacted them about it (i find them alway willing to help and advise). As i said my nut is fitted but no cabble as yet ( it one of many things on big shopping list rebuilding old bikes is such fun am sure many of you out there have been where i am now) but it is some what longer an i wonder if it fit but as i say their parts have been ok so far ( now i have said that i know am asking for trouble and masses of replies to the opposite effect) and if this was such a widespead problem surely we would all know about it just like the gearoil in the clutch or weak front brakes etc. Do you know you have the correct lengthpush rod also that the operating lever (060715) is the correct one and not the Domminator type which looks the same but has different "ramp" so giving a different length of stroke ( just asking feeling free to correct me). If all else fails why not cut down the rgm nut so it just hold on a couple of threads an refit old nut to hold clutch as before. Might be worth try as you have got it an what else are you going to do with it. Another idea i had is ( again feel free to tell me am wrong ) is the primary chain shimed correctly or is this where you have lost the "space" if you have alot of shim thickness pushing clutch further along the mainshaft ( i fitted the loaction spacer (060747) with groove facing wrong way that lead to a moment of panic) i hope you get it sorted Karl

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Previously wrote:

i have an rgm nut but have not yet rebuilt the rest ofclutch to see if it works or has same problem you have but i am following this with interest. Firstly all parts i have so far (fingers crossed) fit just fine so why should yours not have you contacted them about it (i find them alway willing to help and advise). As i said my nut is fitted but no cabble as yet ( it one of many things on big shopping list rebuilding old bikes is such fun am sure many of you out there have been where i am now) but it is some what longer an i wonder if it fit but as i say their parts have been ok so far ( now i have said that i know am asking for trouble and masses of replies to the opposite effect) and if this was such a widespead problem surely we would all know about it just like the gearoil in the clutch or weak front brakes etc. Do you know you have the correct lengthpush rod also that the operating lever (060715) is the correct one and not the Domminator type which looks the same but has different "ramp" so giving a different length of stroke ( just asking feeling free to correct me). If all else fails why not cut down the rgm nut so it just hold on a couple of threads an refit old nut to hold clutch as before. Might be worth try as you have got it an what else are you going to do with it. Another idea i had is ( again feel free to tell me am wrong ) is the primary chain shimed correctly or is this where you have lost the "space" if you have alot of shim thickness pushing clutch further along the mainshaft ( i fitted the loaction spacer (060747) with groove facing wrong way that lead to a moment of panic) i hope you get it sorted Karl

Hi Karl

I have posted this info on accessnorton.com and others have said they have the same problem and that it has been know about for some time. The problem is not the length of the nut but the fact that if you screw it fully home onto the ned of the maindhaft, it protrudes by about 8mm. This either causes problems with the pushrod not emerging or it fouls the diaphram spring. I have now returned mine to RGM and asked for a refund on the grounds that it is not fit for purpose.

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On his website, Dave Comeau comments;

2. Others have cut a groove in the 6mm rod for an o-ring. The inside of the mainshaft is VERY rough for sealing to an buna-n oring. They probably don't last long before they get eaten up.

I did this many years ago and despite the non sympathetic inside diameter its still sealing after probably 17,000 miles.I don't have a lathe either so chucked the pushrod in a drill and spun it against a hacksaw blade until a 1mm section x 3mm ID 'o' ring would fit snugly and just proud of the service.

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Previously wrote:

Previously wrote:

I have this nut installed on my MKII (1972 Roadster) without the problem mentioned by you. First and obvious conclusion would be that your push rod is shorter than normal/original. Under normal conditions this can be compensated by the adjuster nut in the clutch pressure plate/diaphragm spring. But when you add the sealing nut, the total lenght may become inadequate.

That said, I have in my possession two versions of the sealing nut. One bought from AndoverNorton is very shallow only adding about 5mm to the width. The other, which I think is from RGM/Norvil is three times as wide adding about 15mm to the width. Ihave the AN version installed. If you are trying to fit the R/N version this will add to your problems. Try to find out if you have the shallow version or attack the problem by fitting a longer push rod.

Thanks Tom, I have looked into this further and think that the two products you have identified are completely different.

The RGM nut is 19.7mm long and the threads are cut to a depth of 11.5 - 12mm. This means the minimum it will add to the end of the mainshaft is 8mm and my pushrod operating range os 5 - 8mm! This nut is intended to replace the standard nut. Looking at the Norvil website, item 068833 appears very similar as you suggest.

There is a BritCycle product that is an add-on to the end of the mainshaft, whilst the standard nut is still in use. This nut/seal is only 3.6 mm thick, just engaging with the last two threads of the shaft. I have attached a picture from their website. Is this like the AN item? They don't seem to show it on their website.

I've sent an email to RGM for their comment. I'm a bit miffed as I've spent about £22 on this item!

Just to close this one off, RGM never replied to my email so I sent the nut back asking for a refund and they duly obliged, although there was no explanation from them. The BritCycle product, which is also sold by Norvil is made by Dave Comeau and so I ordered it direct from Dave (dynodave@atlanticgreen.com) and including shipping it cost only £15.40. This nut fits perfectly with no issue so its job done at last!

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BEFORE YOU READ THIS I WOULD LIKE TO SAY IN MY DEFENCE THAT I BOUGHT THE NUT THEN READ IT THIS THREAD THEN AS DAVID WAS FINDING HIS SOLUTION I FOUND MINE BUT I WOULD HAVE DONE IT HIS WAY IF I HAD KNOWN BUT LIKE BUYING THE NUT FOUND OUT AFTER THE EVENT LIKE YOU DO. i found the nut fitted inside the clutch with 73 thou gap to the inner face of the springs center boss but this would be different on someone elses clutch as the gap is detreminded by the spacing of the clutch on the mainshaft in order to aline the primary chain. But then as you say the push rod is to short so i tried the fit an Oring to the push rod idea but as the hole in the main shaft is just roughly drilled the Oring would not let the push rod move freely and i thought it may cause it to not release correctlyby staying in contact with the adjuster nut. Now my trouble is i have worked in engineering for far to long and i have learnt how to make things this is bad because instead of being sensable like David may brain that has spent years repair broken machinery of every kind did what it allways does and said just make a new longer push rod so i did like a fool. I tell you this as it may help others realise what you can do and that you dont need a garage full of lathes and milling machinws to make what you need just so knowledge and all the knowledge you will need can be found on google ( even these messages turn up on it). The rod is 6mm diameter ( yes it is metic why Norton??) this is a good thing for unlike the may out dated thread sizes and types used it is easy to buy metic steel bar. What you need is a special type of steel called SILVER STEEL type that into ebay and for £3.90 including postage 13inchs (yes they sell mertic bar in impeiral lengths still theEU have not taken over totaly yet) you can cut and file this stuff with ordinary hand tools as I after a trail fit to get the length needed ( 254mm in my case but yours may not be so beware ) then with an ordinary household blowtortch or even the gas cooker at a push ( and when the other half is out ) head it till red hot and quench in salt water to harden it at each end ( type harden silver steel into google for more details but its that easy ). SO NOW ALL I HAVE TO DO IS FINISH THE REST OF THE BIKE HOPEFULLY WITHOUT TO MUCH MORE PROBLEMS THAT MY BRAIN IS GOING TO TURN INTO AN HOUR OF WORK INSTEAD OF SEND IT BACK IT IS NOT RIGHT

 


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