1972 750cc Combat
Is there a way of moving the clutch bite point nearer the handlebars as at present the bite point is right out towards the rest position of the lever, just the last 1/4" and thus quite 'digital i.e. on or off!
I've checked the friction plates (Surflex) and they are all at full thickness and well as the steel spacer plates, no oil contamination and thus no slippage . The actuating rod is the correct length (9 13/16" (248.8MM - 249MM). The adjustment Screw at the clutch has been set as per the manual.
My logic says slacken the cable at the lever but to move the bite point nearer to the middle of the lever throw the lever would be 'flapping about' with cable slack.
Isn’t it the other way around?
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Hi Martyn
I too have a ‘72 Combat. To get the clutch as I wanted it on my bike I ended up exchanging one of the steel spacer plates for a thicker one from RGM and then adjusted both the actuating rod adjuster and clutch cable to give me the desired result. Setting the actuating rod per the manual initially didn’t allow the clutch to fully disengage so I was having problems selecting first gear. I’ve ended but taking pretty much all of the play out of the actuator but the result is a clutch that has a much lighter feel, bites mid way through the clutch lever range, doesn’t slip and lets me select first gear. A bit of faffing about but I was pleased with the end result.
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Hi Richard. I too, this…
Hi Richard. I too, this morning did exactly the same, that is added a thicker steel spacer. I've currently got the resultant lighter clutch (didn't need this) but my bite point is still at the end of the travel so l'll have another fiddle tomorrow.
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No direct experience with the commando but would it not be better to tighten the cable? If the greater portion of movement is doing nothing then wind on a bit. They are a short action diaphragm clutch so you are not looking for huge travel. What you don’t want is clutch slip so somewhere in between will be the optimum adjustment.
J