Commando specialist South Devon wanted - carbs

The only guy I know to recommend is Dave Massam at Colton, not a commando specialist but an old bike expert, however he is usually very busy! Whatâs the problem?

Patrick

In addition to Dave Massam at Colyton, Ian Johnston (Tel: 07891827449) at Old School Classic Motorcycles at Bow, Devon is highly recommended by fellow members of the Exeter Classic MCC.

I have recent experience of renovating twin Amal Concentrics on my '72 Commando Roadster and there are many on this forum very knowledgeable about such things.

As Dan says what exactly is the problem?

Andy

Totnes any good? Maybe contact this outfit â http://www.totnesclassicmotorcycles.co.uk â they appear to be mainly dealers, and not Commando specialists, but they have a workshop and just might help you out ... Or recommend someone else who can.

I wonder how much they'll want for their 'refurbished' T160s. And if they'll be any good.

I also wonder what Charlies of Bristol meant by 'the adjustment had reached its limit.' That doesn't really mean anything to me, and suggests that they were shy of really having a look â not that I want to cast nasturtiums on someone I've never dealt with, perhaps you didn't ask them to do that. Assuming you have Amal Concentrics, and always assuming that this really is a carb issue, they are very basic devices to work on. Not necessarily so simple to get right, but even I've managed it pretty much, which is saying something. Perhaps it's time to Take Courage (mmm, Directors Bitter!) and dive in. There are a lot of helpful and knowledgeable people on this forum, plus other online resources:

http://amalcarb.co.uk/rebuilding-mark-1-concentric-carburetter

http://www.jba.bc.ca/Bushmans%20Carb%20Tuning.html

https://www.princeton.edu/ssp/65-cub-data/library/amalbritbike.pdf

Lastly, I've found that the manufacturers can be quite incredibly helpful if you contact them when you're really stuck:

http://amalcarb.co.uk

Patrick

I'd start with the basics.

Check that the choke is operating correctly on the RH carb, i.e. assuming choke slide is fitted, it is moving up with the operation of the choke lever and the cable is not broken or the nipple broken off at the carb end. You can check the cable without removing the carb. On the RH carb it will be the rearmost of 2 cables and if you pull the cable and the inner and outer pull right out then the cable needs renewal.

A further option causing rich running is that either the clip has become detached from the needle in the throttle slide or the needle and clip have worked there way up inside the large spring - both these problems have occurred on my bike. To check this you need to remove the carb. See the Amal Mk1 rebuild link referred to by Colin. You'll need to drain the carbs, undo the fuel lines from the tank and at the banjo connection, remove the petrol tank and remove the carb. Undo the two allen bolts that join the manifold to the cylinder head and remove the thick fibre insulator. This gives enough wriggle room to detach the carb and manifold complete from the air filter bellows. You can then check the needle and choke slide before removing the top from the carb and checking the needle and clip are located correctly.

I'm just giving some first pointers here but worth starting with these.

I will send you an email with contact details. Please contact me to discuss further if necessary.

Andy

I would check valve clearances and compression before starting to fiddle with the carbs

Check choke not closing and fuel level first.