Can't select neutral when hot

Alright Jack, the clutch slip could be due to the bronze plates becoming oil glazed, a good de-greasing/de-glazing is required. Also reducing the inner radius of the bronze platesreduces slip. RGM do a 'high torque' set. Clutch drag could be warped steel plates, notched grooves on the hub and chainwheel or gearbox oil contamination. The standard system can be made to work perfectly ok without having to resort to belt drives, which can come with their own problems if gearbox mainshaft and crankshaft are not parallel.

Good luck, Simon.

Just a few things that you might consider: what is the engine speed like at tick over when hot? Too fast a tickover can make selecting neutral less easy.

Has the primary drive got the correct volume and viscosity of oil in it? If it is over filled was that done by a foolish fitter or is the crank seal leaking engine oil into the primary side?

It is probably neither of those faults but they are easy to check and remedy.

Just to reinforce the earlier comments, the ability of the bronze Commando clutch to pretty well drag and slip at the same time is almost certainly caused by oil contamination. If you're lucky, this will just be the standard maintenance interval build up.

I find it a good idea to remove the plates and scrub off every 5000 miles or so. It is not sufficient just to rinse in solvent, they need a good scrubbing with 'Scotchbrite'.

If the 'level' plug has been used as a guide when filling then it will be too much. Best to measure the oil in and as Ian says, if the crank seal is leaking then it will need to be replaced. Generally if it has popped out then there is so much oil that it will not free off at all.

Changing the crank seal is a bit of a pig on the Mk111 as they deleted the flange behind the seal meaning that it is no longer possible just to push the new seal home knowing that it will end up square. There is also a circlip on the outside (not a proper clip as per the illustrations but simply a wire). Replacing the seal is a matter of getting it as square as possible and then gently easing the circlip in from behind until it pushes the seal just past the groove and drops in. It shouldn't be pushed onto the bearing.

My preference is for the seals with a metal outer and a smear of bearing fit.

Jack

All the comment above is correct, but whatI would say is if you are new to Commandos don't worry as you might just have a routine service issue. The clutch plates all need to come out at a 'few thousand' miles for washing, and I use cellulose thinners. The main cause of the problem is the gearbox hypoid oil coming down the pushrod and flying out - don't over fill the gearbox and fit a pushrod seal. Very slippy additive oil in the primary case can make the clutch pick up a residue. If the steel plates are very 'blued' then its been slipping a lot and they might be distorted, but that is unlikely.

Norm

I used to strip my clutch every spring to clean the oil off, if contaminated with oil it will drag and make neutral difficult to find when you stop at the lights. I have done two things that solved the problem. First I only fill the chaincase to the level plug with the bike on the side stand. Secondly I fitted DynoDave Comeaus clutch rod seal, it is available from Norvil in UK. Result silky smooth clutch operation no drag or slip, incidentaly I have a combination of bronze and Barnett clutch plates to arrive at the correct stack height. For tips on a reliable starter refer to the other thread on this message board. Hope this helps,

Teaticketony Lockwood

Peter,

Sorry I cannot remember my exact config. next time I have it apart I will write it down. Did you check Dynodaves notes on the clutch variations. You can find him at atlanticgreen.com or on the INOA website the correct stack height for the late models is 1.172 ,

hope this is helpful Teaticketony Lockwood