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1960 99 front wheel stops turning when spindle nut tightened?

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Happy Easter all,

I had this problem about 15 years ago and thought it a one off so never recorded the cure. Basically I've had the front wheel rebuilt with new bearings but find that the wheel starts to lock up as the spindle nut is tightened. I just can't remember what I did before to fix the problem. Any ideas please?

While I'm at it, anyone know what the threads are on the bottom of the slider for the mudguard stays on 1960 models? I'm finding 26tpi cycle fit best but not perfect. Thought I'd ask before I put a tap through them.

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Previously neil_wyatt wrote:

Happy Easter all,

I had this problem about 15 years ago and thought it a one off so never recorded the cure. Basically I've had the front wheel rebuilt with new bearings but find that the wheel starts to lock up as the spindle nut is tightened. I just can't remember what I did before to fix the problem. Any ideas please?

While I'm at it, anyone know what the threads are on the bottom of the slider for the mudguard stays on 1960 models? I'm finding 26tpi cycle fit best but not perfect. Thought I'd ask before I put a tap through them.

have you forgotten the spacer washer and felt washer that goes with it, that fits behide the back plate, .yours anna j

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There can be several reasons for the wheel binding.

1) The spindle has not passed through the forks far enough. Usually because the pinch bolt has been tightened to soon. The nut then tries to compress all the bits together, pushing the brake plate onto the hub. The process required, in this case, is for the spindle to be held while the nut is tightened. But not held by the pinch bolt. There is usually a Tommy Bar hole for this in the spindle end. Then you do up the fork leg pinch bolt.

2) If new brake linings have been fitted then there is a possibility of their edges binding on part of the drum. This is caused by the old linings wearing enough of the drum away to may a shallow depression in the swept area. New linings or new shoes might not exactly match this depression and catch on one side. A simple cure for this is to chamfer down the long edges of each shoe by about 2mm.

3) If the wheel bearings have been replaced....make certain that the pinch bolt side bearing has gone right to the bottom of its housing. The locking ring should be fully wound in. Also the spacer tube between the bearings has to be the correct way round. The small end goes in the single row bearing which sits under the locking ring (LHS). It is easy to get this wrong.

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Thanks Gordon, I'll run the cycle tap through them. You would have thought they would have been Whitworth, logically.

Anna, did you mean the brake plate instead of back plate? I thought about a spacer between the hub and brake plate but can't see how that would work. It might but the only place I can see them in the diagrams is inside the hub with the bearings and they are all fitted.

As said, had this problem once before and should have noted it. It will be this time.

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Many thanks Phil, just seen this.

The new stainless spindle is very tight and so point one might be the case.

I will check this first. It won't be the brake linings, I'msure because these are the old, usedrivetedtype but with plenty of life in them.

I left the bearings, spacers and felt seals to the wheel builder and though it looks right and greased up from the outside, the spacer tube could well be the wrong way around?

I'll keep you posted and thanks again, Neil.

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Part of the problem was the original type bridge not having enough clearance with the WM2, Avon 90/90 front tyre. Thinner Commando type stainless bridge fixed this.

But the main problem was the dust cap on the pinch bolt side. The dust cap was a stainless after market job. I think it will need some machining. Anyway, take this out and all is well and the wheel turns lovely.

Must have been the problem last time. I won't forget again and thanks everyone for your input.

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Previously neil_wyatt wrote:

Part of the problem was the original type bridge not having enough clearance with the WM2, Avon 90/90 front tyre. Thinner Commando type stainless bridge fixed this.

But the main problem was the dust cap on the pinch bolt side. The dust cap was a stainless after market job. I think it will need some machining. Anyway, take this out and all is well and the wheel turns lovely.

Must have been the problem last time. I won't forget again and thanks everyone for your input.

I had exactly the same problem with the front wheel on my De Luxe Navigator a few weeks ago and the solution was the same - remove the brand new stainless dust cover and refit the old original one. Problem was immediately solved.

Looks like these aftermarket stainless dust covers are not accurately made although it did come from what is regarded as a reliable source.

Patrick

 


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