1936 International 30 rebuild

Hi Marian, welcome to the club, that looks like a great project

You can buy a new TT carb from Amal for £390.00

I don't know that much about 1936 Inters, but looking at your picture, your gearbox is late 1940's and the forks are probably WD16H. So I don't know if you're just getting the bike working as it is or trying to get it original? These will all work fine in the bike otherwise.

I'm rebuilding a 57 inter so cannot advise on the chassis side but for the engine have a look at Paul Normans website, racingvincent.co.uk . Lots of info on rebuilding the engine and if you select the online catalogue lots of difficult to find engine parts. He also does chassis parts for earlier Inters...

Good luck

Mark

Hi Marian

Dave is right in saying that the forks are not Inter. The International forks had the brake anchor on the right, also as you look at them âhead onâ they are parallel, all the other models where splayed (wider at the bottom than the top). If, as you say, you arenât worried about original spec to much then these forks will be fine. My Inter has 1939 ES2 forks on it...

The same goes for the gearbox, itâs a post war one but should fit and work just fine in your bike, depending on what model it come from you might find it offers a better spread of gear ratios for use on the road. Itâll be worth doing a dry assembly and checking that all the sprockets line up though, I have read somewhere about different length shafts in the gearboxâs, canât remember where I read it now so please donât quote me one it!

Other than that you look to have a lot of the good bits, do you have a petrol tank? The engine doesnât look to be a manx type one to me, the differences between the manx spec engine and the standard Inter could be another thread all on its own! That doesnât mean you canât put it together with some manx parts in it, and build the bike to look like a racer (I did with mine).

If you are going to build the engine yourself, buy this book. It has loads of information in it, most of which is taken from other sources, but itâs all in one place and will be the best £29 you could spend!

Ian Bennett makes some fantastic parts for the engine, you will probably be able to find them cheaper elsewhere but I have his needle roller big end, cams, camshaft and loads of other bits fitted in my engine, I wouldnât go anywhere else if I was building another one, the quality is second to none in my opinion.

Finally another vote for Paul Norman, his parts a very good quality and he has a good range which he is always expanding on.

Good luck and keep us posted

Andy

If you intend to ride the bike on the street the TT carb might not be a good choice. There is no idle circuit in it. As such you have to keep bleeping the throttle when at a stop. Maybe one of the larger GP carbs would be a better choice.

Good luck with the rebuild.

Previously michael_sullivan wrote:

If you intend to ride the bike on the street the TT carb might not be a good choice. There is no idle circuit in it. As such you have to keep bleeping the throttle when at a stop. Maybe one of the larger GP carbs would be a better choice.

Good luck with the rebuild. Its possible to put a couple of solder blobs on the bottom of the slide to give a sort of tickover.

Hi Marian

Have a look in George Cohen's Website - http://www.norton.uk.com

There are lots of interesting things concerning your engine, especially the repair of the cambox.

Regards

Derek Ambler

Ouch. If I were you, I'd be getting in touch with Stu Rogers - see this thread :-

http://www.nortonownersclub.org/noc-chat/technical1-singles-forum/632408248

My experience of camshaft Nortons is generally limited to listening to tales of woe, beer glass in hand....but your photos make me rather glad that I run a 1930s side-valve...

Hi Marian

Itâs quite common to see broken fins, they can be built up with weld and dressed down, then clean it up and youâll never know it was a repair.

The cam box tunnels are also often broken. I repaired mine with the method described on George Cohenâs website. The crack in the bearing housing is more problematic, if you find a good welder it could be welded up and then machined back. I would be more tempted to get a new end cover from Ian Bennet.

Andy

Stu Rogers openly admits he doesn't really do emails. Once you get through to him on the phone you'll realise why he is so often engaged, he can talk for England! He's probably the best person to talk to about yourInter though so keep trying, he'll be very helpful!

Also, I run my 1936 Inter on a TT carb and it's fine, the lack of a tickover is a minor problem IMO.

Previously andy_marks wrote:

Stu Rogers openly admits he doesn't really do emails. Once you get through to him on the phone you'll realise why he is so often engaged, he can talk for England! He's probably the best person to talk to about yourInter though so keep trying, he'll be very helpful!

Also, I run my 1936 Inter on a TT carb and it's fine, the lack of a tickover is a minor problem IMO.

Back in the day, the trick to make a GP type carb streetable was to drill a #40 hole at the back of the throttle slide just above the bottom where it fits into the carb body. This was something that BSA Gold Star owners in the U.S. did to make the bike a bit more civilised. I never heard of it being tried on a TT carb though. I suppose running a large monobloc could be done or even a standard carb for the street and a TT for track days use.

Hi Marian

Martin Bratby is the guy to talk to about your carb. Another guy who doesn't do emails - 01543 572583. He'll be able to advise you on the sizing and can overhaul the carb for you if its needed (I'd reccomend it, it's one less unknown when you start trying to set the bike up and put it on the road)