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Vacuum gauges on 73 Commando

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Hi,

I wanted to check the sync on my Amal carbs.

I had a pair of old gauges that I fitted to the top tubes on my Amals which have a length of hose joining them together. Massive deflection and then they both broke.

Any links to set up and operation of twin gauges/dampers would be great. I'm due another set but want to make sure I'm doing this right.

Was going to set up as per this thread:

Synching Twin Carbs - GreasyGringoGreasyGringo

Thx

Eddie

 

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Back in the day, on old BL A Series with twin SUs, we used to use a length of eight bore plastic tube to listen to the hiss of air passing the butterfly's to match the idling positions.  On an Amal, one could do the same with the slides for the idle stops, then match the cable adjustment just lifting them. Again by the hiss of airflow.

Nowadays you probably need a computer and/or an app to do this, at great cost!

 

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I understand. Is there something amiss or are you just curious?

You only need some rubber tubing to link each gauge to your balance tube connection on each manifold and you tune accordingly. What broke, the gauges?  I guess they  were perished inside.  You are only measuring depression in the manifold.  You can affect this by cable, slide, jets and basic engine gas flow issues as described in your link.

Ensure your carbs are built to same spec, note your current settings; Idle, mix etc) adjust lift of slide to be equal with drill bit balance etc.  Connect your gauges with equal tube lengths and  diameters (no leaks). Start her up and observe the depression. Note your running state and determine your cause. 

Tune her in Carb by Carb initially (one plug start up), then run with the pair and make them balance. If internals are well they should not be too far off.

I cant work with the "hiss" method, its too noisy to acclimatise the ear for me...

 

Good  Luck

 

J

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Peter,

I use a pair of Davida gauges for checking the balance of my BMW R1200S, which will create more of an intake depression than the Commando. There is noticeable but unsurprising needle fluctuation at Idle, which quickly settles as the revs rise.  As mentioned already, if your gauges were perhaps old, they may have suffered internally and just given up?

Andy

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Unless I missed something, if you connect vacuum gauges to the commando without inline restrictors, then you will most likely damage the gauges. Assuming you are using 6mm tube, a brass restrictor, say with a 0.5mm or less hole through the centre might work.

The vacuum pulses will be quite large so you may need to construct a accumulator fitted to the gauge side of the restrictor. This could be a meter (maybe longer) length of tube blanked off at the far end.

Even with the above in place, I would think the best way to set the carbs is using the old methods, e.g testing both slides open together and the old tweeking by ear and noting RPM changes.

Steve 

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I think i managed to salvage the gauges. The gear driving the needle was jammed on both of them. Freed off and centred on the zero. Tested calibration on a hand vacuum pump and both with 1/2 hg.

Have ordered 2 valves for the 6mm hose pipe and will close right off before I fit to the bike and then try again. The massive deflections and full manifold vacuum were too much for them at idle. When I used them on a Ducati twin I used the brass screw on tubes with a tiny orifice plus dampers.

I'll get there

Cheers

Eddie

 

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Added the brass reducer pipes and plus valves and now can get a steady reading.

Suspision confirmed. RH cylinder way down on vacuum. 

RH float bowl leaking. Need new floats + disturbing the plastic fuel feed banjos has given me fuel leaks in multiple places. Order with RGM pending

 


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