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thanks all iso,s finally fitted but swing arm question

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thanks every one who sent the required info to change iso,s without re/re eng ,can swing arm be done without re.re primary case ??thought i had some play but removed wheel clamped some wood across swing arm cant seem to duplicate what i thought was play in arm bushes am i missing something ???any help ??

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take a look at the primary chain case joint where it is close to the Z plate. With the rear wheel removed, put some pressure from side to side on the swinging arm, any play, particularly in the rear Iso, will be visible here, Just below the rear iso bolt.

With the rear wheel still removed, remove the lower suspension nuts and slip the bottom of the shocks off. Any play in the swinging arm will be easily seen near the swinging arm pivot on the RHS.

Finally check the rear wheel bearings.

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Previously david_evans wrote:

take a look at the primary chain case joint where it is close to the Z plate. With the rear wheel removed, put some pressure from side to side on the swinging arm, any play, particularly in the rear Iso, will be visible here, Just below the rear iso bolt.

With the rear wheel still removed, remove the lower suspension nuts and slip the bottom of the shocks off. Any play in the swinging arm will be easily seen near the swinging arm pivot on the RHS.

Finally check the rear wheel bearings.

did as suggested ,some play at drive side s/arm have bushes ,so is it possible to remove the two fwd facing bolts and pull spindle from one side ???ie r/h as i would like not to have dismantle the clutch any thoughts ,pls

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Previously david_evans wrote:

take a look at the primary chain case joint where it is close to the Z plate. With the rear wheel removed, put some pressure from side to side on the swinging arm, any play, particularly in the rear Iso, will be visible here, Just below the rear iso bolt.

With the rear wheel still removed, remove the lower suspension nuts and slip the bottom of the shocks off. Any play in the swinging arm will be easily seen near the swinging arm pivot on the RHS.

Finally check the rear wheel bearings.

did as suggested ,some play at drive side s/arm have bushes ,so is it possible to remove the two fwd facing bolts and pull spindle from one side ???ie r/h as i would like not to have dismantle the clutch any thoughts ,pls

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You can pull the spindle out through the RHS no problem. A long 1/2" bolt is the special tool you need. Same thread as the front iso through-bolt.

I had some play at the swingarm but the bushes were perfect. The spindle was loose in the cradle tube so check for that also. Remove filler screw to do this.

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Previously Jonathan Soons wrote:

You can pull the spindle out through the RHS no problem. A long 1/2" bolt is the special tool you need. Same thread as the front iso through-bolt.

I had some play at the swingarm but the bushes were perfect. The spindle was loose in the cradle tube so check for that also. Remove filler screw to do this.

oh great thats good news ill give it a go,if the spindle(steel?) is loose in the cradle what is the fix? ££££ i suppose thanks for the good news

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The fix is to ream out the tube to suit oversize spindle, then fit collars to the OD of the tube to stop it happening again. No idea of cost but the collars cost me £20 but my tube was OK so did not have to do the rest. Oversize spindles were available at one time, probably still are.

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looking for some more info, re swing arm, i noticed many pics ,mine has two bolts facing fwd on the rear portion of the swing arm tube ,but on a pdf file of the manual these bolts dont show has mine been moded ???its a 72 roadster and yes there is some movement between cap cover and cradle thxs

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Some pictures would help, descriptions are open to various interpretations. There are 3 tubes on the swing arm as an example, but no idea which one you are referring too.

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Previously john_holmes wrote:

Some pictures would help, descriptions are open to various interpretations. There are 3 tubes on the swing arm as an example, but no idea which one you are referring too.

not sure how to upload on this site but ,its the tube that carries the spindle,which in turn is the swing arm pivot point,in all the drawings there is one vertical bolt that retains the spindle,well some one has drilled/ tapped two horizontal holes ,through the cradle and into the spindle about 1/2 in from each end ,taped the orig single vertical hole but left the threaded portion in the spindle ,which i have removed ,,there is some play between the spindle and cradle and between spindle and bushes but less, when the bolts are tightened the spindle appears secure and play is taken up ,but why ???the extra holes

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Previously stephen_campbell wrote:

looking for some more info, re swing arm, i noticed many pics ,mine has two bolts facing fwd on the rear portion of the swing arm tube ,but on a pdf file of the manual these bolts dont show has mine been moded ???its a 72 roadster and yes there is some movement between cap cover and cradle thxs

Those screws are a clamping mechanism for a loose spindle. I found that fix on this forum but I welded 2 nuts to the tube so I have plenty of grade 8 thread.

Here is a link to the collar fix:

http://www.inoanorton.com/docs/swingarm.pdf

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Are we talking about the swing arm or the swing arm mount/cradle because the spindle only goes through the swing arm on the 2 ends where the bushes go, in between it is the mount/cradle and this has a tube the spindle runs inside.

It was a common fix when the mount/cradle swing arm spindle tube got belled out to drill holes and add bolts. The factory fix was the addition of 2 cotter pins on the MK3 and the other good alternative is the collars I mentioned.

The advice still stands.

The fix is to ream out the tube to suit oversize spindle, then fit collars to the OD of the tube to stop it happening again. No idea of cost but the collars cost me £20 but my tube was OK so did not have to do the rest. Oversize spindles were available at one time, probably still are.

Just checked and RGM do the spindle + 5 thou and +10 Thou at £19.90

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Previously john_holmes wrote:

Are we talking about the swing arm or the swing arm mount/cradle because the spindle only goes through the swing arm on the 2 ends where the bushes go, in between it is the mount/cradle and this has a tube the spindle runs inside.

It was a common fix when the mount/cradle swing arm spindle tube got belled out to drill holes and add bolts. The factory fix was the addition of 2 cotter pins on the MK3 and the other good alternative is the collars I mentioned.

The advice still stands.

The fix is to ream out the tube to suit oversize spindle, then fit collars to the OD of the tube to stop it happening again. No idea of cost but the collars cost me £20 but my tube was OK so did not have to do the rest. Oversize spindles were available at one time, probably still are.

Just checked and RGM do the spindle + 5 thou and +10 Thou at £19.90

okey both replies answer the ?,wonder why the orig locating bolt was put back with only the threaded portion in the spindle and peened over?also as opposed to adding nuts to the external portion of the spindle support ,these have actually been drilled taped into the hardened spindle,with just a plain hole thru spindle support,thxs you all for your time, ill order another spindle the rgm one seems the cheapest ,norvil £29 but may put this back for the time being just to get the rest of the bike sorted as it has not been running for a while and as the summer is sooo short here ,again thanks to all would this be okey for the time being ??the repair i mean????

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wonder why the orig locating bolt was put back with only the threaded portion in the spindle and peened over?also as opposed to adding nuts to the external portion of the spindle support ,these have actually been drilled taped into the hardened spindle

You would need to ask the previous owners, as the years have gone on the fix to the tube belling has been improved until we are now with the collars which grip the tube on the OD and also pull the spindle towards the back of the tube, this is working well. The fix you have is earlier and has failed or never truly worked so once you have reamed it out and put a new spindle in the collar mod will stop it from failing again. Without fixing the belled out tube even the collars will not fix the issue.

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Previously john_holmes wrote:

wonder why the orig locating bolt was put back with only the threaded portion in the spindle and peened over?also as opposed to adding nuts to the external portion of the spindle support ,these have actually been drilled taped into the hardened spindle

You would need to ask the previous owners, as the years have gone on the fix to the tube belling has been improved until we are now with the collars which grip the tube on the OD and also pull the spindle towards the back of the tube, this is working well. The fix you have is earlier and has failed or never truly worked so once you have reamed it out and put a new spindle in the collar mod will stop it from failing again. Without fixing the belled out tube even the collars will not fix the issue.

have ordered the 5 over spindle and collars ,thxs dont suppose finding a ream will be easy !!!!for now ill retap the spindle and fit better grade bolts and refit otherwise the tiny summer the place has will be gone

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An adjustable reamer will do the job, the job is mentioned in the NOC Commando Notes page 25 and says once the reamer has cleared out the centre to match the ends the +0.005 spindle seems to fit well.

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You need an expanding reamer, most engineering companies will have one but 0.005" is not very much so go very carefully or you'll be looking for a plus 0.010"

 


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