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Finding neutral

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Hi. I am the very proud new owner to a Mk111 1977 Commando. I do also own a 1972 combat but have been looking for a Mk111 for almost 10 years.

All is fine except i do have problems locating neutral, gear changing from first to second is also firmer than i think it should be. She has only covered 100 miles in the last 7 years and i would expect it will take a few miles before all loosens fully. I have changed all the oils. I did read in this forum some time back someone having a similar problem but cant find it.

I wonder if anyone can advise before i begin putting some miles on her.

Thank You Mark.

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Sounds like a dragging clutch. Check for correct clutch adjustment in the usual way and if neutral still difficult to select I'd suggest dismantling clutch , cleaning plates thoroughly ,then refilling primary chaincase with20/50 oil. This has always worked for me.

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Previously james_fanning wrote:

Sounds like a dragging clutch. Check for correct clutch adjustment in the usual way and if neutral still difficult to select I'd suggest dismantling clutch , cleaning plates thoroughly ,then refilling primary chaincase with20/50 oil. This has always worked for me.

I think you may have it there, the clutch is dragging slightly possibly due to having been stood for a few years. I will wash the plates and refil as suggested.

Many Thanks

Mark.

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Howd you get on checking your clutch out?

Though to post back as recently I had problems with mine. No drag as such but finding Neutral (esp when hot) was like calling Elvis.

I also had a super heavy clutch since I bought the bike, no broken cables but a 30min ride would kill the left hand with new cables routed correctly.

So I cleaned the clutch plates up, put in a 2mm spacer plate and filled up with ATF fluid.

Now ive no noise on gear engagement, a 3 finger easy feeling clutch, and she just pops into Neutral no probs. Feels like a different bike altogether!

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Clutch drag will indeed cause this but the Mk3 has an extra pitfall in the form of a neutral indicator switch which consists of a brass body with plunger which screws into the front face of the box and is operated by a domed stud mounted on the inner face of the cam plate.

The switch has to be screwed into the box until it just operates and the lock nut then tightened. Any further and it will act as a sort of counter-detent precisely at the neutral position. It will create stiffness as the cam plate approaches neutral resulting in higher pressure and then as it goes over centre, it will suddenly free off.

This can be adjusted in-situ but it's a bit of a fiddle with the cross over shaft in the way.

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My 99 has a neutral indicator, when I release the clutch and the bike does not lurch forward it indicates to me that neutral is still in there. Somewhere.

 


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