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Electronic ignition dilemma

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hi all

Could someone please advise me on the basic requirements for changing to pazon electronic ignition

My current system (BOYER) is wired direct to 12 volt coils using 2 (Y wired) connections making the loop wire between coils redundant , bypassing the condensers/ballast resistor etc ,this was done to reduce the voltage drop through aged wires/connectors as i know that my current unit needs a decent (12v +) to work

This set-up has worked relatively well apart from a few occassions when the bike lost power(like fuel starvation or a partial seizure) only to clear itself after a re-start .I've checked the wires at the pick-up as i had one break before giving me hours of fun trying to source the problem , add to this the confidence denting /ankle breaking kickbacks which happen for no apparent reason its time for a change.

My real question is can i run a 12volt pazon surefire on twelve volt coils as above or do i need to replace them with 6volt coils and put the ballast resistor back into the circuit.

850 interstate mk111 with e/s removed

cheers steve

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I'd say yes since the Pazon will see similar amps on 12v to what it would on 2 x 6V coils in series (same effective resistance as 2 x 12v wired in parallel). Why don't you email Andy at Pazon as he is usually helpful. If the Boyer runs OK there is no reason I can see why the Pazon will not.

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Back to school for you Keith. Two 3 ohm coils in series will have a total resistance of 6 ohm. Two 3 ohm coils in parallel will have a total resistance of 1.5 ohm.

The boyer will run two 12v coils in series and no ballast. one less item in the system. If the boyer is not working properly due to low voltage, changing to Pazon is treating the symptom not the cause. Sort out your charging system, much cheaper than buying an expensive Pazon

You might consider binning the zeners and fitting a modern regulator rectifier unit. Most jap bikes have 3phase alternators, I think the Mk3 does also. Try electrex for a "uk made" soloution or SRM for a podtronics unit, or even Boyer powerbox. You might even find your headlight works better and your indicators don't slow down at tickover.

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I probably do! I was thinking two separate 12v supplies to each coil which being 12v would be twice the resistance of a 6v coil, given similar designed output. 6v @ 2ohm (nominal), 12v @ 4ohm or 12v x 2= 2ohm in parallel. Is that not what you thought I meant? I was thinking about the current the Pazon would be switching at appx. 3A intermittent. Anyway, apologies to Steve for giving him false info.

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hi all

Thanks for your feed-back re-electronic ignition, as keith suggested I e-mailed andy at pazon, he was very helpful and has put me straight regarding the coils which should be 2x 6volt in series and not 2x12volt in parallel as I had wired ( new 6volt coils ordered from the nocshop)

I don't think my charging systems letting my down,though I will admit the alternator is slightly charred in places it was showing an increased voltage to the battery when the throttle was blipped, I'm putting the problem down to my old e/i system because it would kickback even on a freshly charged battery.

next question is which system is best for the 850 the pazon sure-fire or altair

cheers steve

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Previously wrote:

hi all

Thanks for your feed-back re-electronic ignition, as keith suggested I e-mailed andy at pazon, he was very helpful and has put me straight regarding the coils which should be 2x 6volt in series and not 2x12volt in parallel as I had wired ( new 6volt coils ordered from the nocshop)

I don't think my charging systems letting my down,though I will admit the alternator is slightly charred in places it was showing an increased voltage to the battery when the throttle was blipped, I'm putting the problem down to my old e/i system because it would kickback even on a freshly charged battery.

next question is which system is best for the 850 the pazon sure-fire or altair

cheers steve

You should see an increase in voltage when the throttle is blipped up in the region of 14 volts. If the alternator is "charred" something is not right. If the alternator seizes up you may end up on your arse, not good. If it is kicking back on a fat battery, the ignition timing is probably too advanced, ie the spark is occuring too far before top dead centre. Setting it with a strobe is the only accurate way.

If you are still convinced you need a new i/e unit, buy the most expensive you can afford.

Dave Evans

 


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