Dommie 99 ignition timing

Previously robert_tuck wrote:

Long time since I played with Mags, could it be points with negligable gap,leaky condensor?, I seem to remember not using light accross mag and instead using thin feeler guage to determine openning point.Does sound as if your timing could be well out or no advance working.

Yes Robert, I suspected the AAR unit as it feels sluggish and doesent return smoothly, and I think I will go with the feeler guage method (where would I find the condenser?).

Thanks

Previously robert_tuck wrote:

Hi Peter, The condensor is built into the mag and I would not advise you to strip the mag other than to take out the points and pick-ups. you will loose magnetism and the mag will need a professional to put it right.The Auto advance units are commonly a bit sluggish at times, you have to wedge the unit(timing cover off) in the fully advance position to time it.Are you sure the motor runs on 2 cylinders?,Both pipes should get hot at the same time and equal.If the motor has been running poorly sling the old plugs and fit new with smaller than std gaps .May help a tired old mag.Don't use resistor plugs, leads or plug caps.A sluggish advance unit will only make the tickover a bit erratic or fast and would not stop the motor from revving unless it was siezed up( a bit unlikely in the oily place it lives. If you knew how long I've been fiddling with my carb when its been ignition problems all along you would not listen to me!!. You could have a fuel supply problem, blocked tank cap , Tank or carb filter or main jet.

Thanks for the advice Robert.

Previously anna jeannette Dixon wrote:

Previously peter_coates wrote:

Previously robert_tuck wrote:

Hi Peter, The condensor is built into the mag and I would not advise you to strip the mag other than to take out the points and pick-ups. you will loose magnetism and the mag will need a professional to put it right.The Auto advance units are commonly a bit sluggish at times, you have to wedge the unit(timing cover off) in the fully advance position to time it.Are you sure the motor runs on 2 cylinders?,Both pipes should get hot at the same time and equal.If the motor has been running poorly sling the old plugs and fit new with smaller than std gaps .May help a tired old mag.Don't use resistor plugs, leads or plug caps.A sluggish advance unit will only make the tickover a bit erratic or fast and would not stop the motor from revving unless it was siezed up( a bit unlikely in the oily place it lives. If you knew how long I've been fiddling with my carb when its been ignition problems all along you would not listen to me!!. You could have a fuel supply problem, blocked tank cap , Tank or carb filter or main jet.

Thanks for the advice Robert.

Hello the biggest mistake you all make is not timing from the driver side . left hand side first you know this by the plug lead is the nearess to the battery box the right hand side plug lead should be nearess to the back of the barrels .to chack both you need a timing disc and oil drained timing cover OFF , ADT open FULLY Advanced next rocker covers OFF so you know where the valve are opening and closing , set the timing disc at (0) on the left hand cylinder fix your pointer at (0) next turn your engine back to 32 degress , now you should have a Riza cig paper to hand the tune the motor back and forth so you can feel the cig paper come lose in the points this is the old and tested way of setting point and the timing your cig paper should come lose about 32degress and the point should be fully open at 6 degress after TDC ,

then do the same to the right hand side, yours Anna J

Thanks Anna, I had done all you recomended,but only checked the ignition timing (no adjustment) all in order so reassembled and kicked over, started ok (still mystified ???).

Anna, as my wiring is a mess, I intend to rewire complete with Bullet Connectors as original, could you advise me of the size of wire I should use?

Thanks

Pete

Previously John Shorter wrote:

Back to basics :- If you have connected the leads, your timing light, correctly, and the light does not go out, there are are two possibilities.

1. There is no gap at the points.

2. There is a short circuit between the fixed and moving points.

Whether, or not, the condenser is faulty will.not affect this. The points are only a switch.

Before starting to check the timing, adjust the points gap to 12 thou (+/- 1) when fully open. If your timing light still doesn't go out, there is no point in checking the timing, before finding the reason. You may well find it does not need adjustment anyway.

Thanks John, the points were opening so timing ok, fired up later ok , still mystified !!!!!!!

Pete

Previously anna jeannette Dixon wrote:

Previously peter_coates wrote:

Previously anna jeannette Dixon wrote:

Previously peter_coates wrote:

Previously robert_tuck wrote:

Hi Peter, The condensor is built into the mag and I would not advise you to strip the mag other than to take out the points and pick-ups. you will loose magnetism and the mag will need a professional to put it right.The Auto advance units are commonly a bit sluggish at times, you have to wedge the unit(timing cover off) in the fully advance position to time it.Are you sure the motor runs on 2 cylinders?,Both pipes should get hot at the same time and equal.If the motor has been running poorly sling the old plugs and fit new with smaller than std gaps .May help a tired old mag.Don't use resistor plugs, leads or plug caps.A sluggish advance unit will only make the tickover a bit erratic or fast and would not stop the motor from revving unless it was siezed up( a bit unlikely in the oily place it lives. If you knew how long I've been fiddling with my carb when its been ignition problems all along you would not listen to me!!. You could have a fuel supply problem, blocked tank cap , Tank or carb filter or main jet.

Thanks for the advice Robert.

Hello the biggest mistake you all make is not timing from the driver side . left hand side first you know this by the plug lead is the nearess to the battery box the right hand side plug lead should be nearess to the back of the barrels .to chack both you need a timing disc and oil drained timing cover OFF , ADT open FULLY Advanced next rocker covers OFF so you know where the valve are opening and closing , set the timing disc at (0) on the left hand cylinder fix your pointer at (0) next turn your engine back to 32 degress , now you should have a Riza cig paper to hand the tune the motor back and forth so you can feel the cig paper come lose in the points this is the old and tested way of setting point and the timing your cig paper should come lose about 32degress and the point should be fully open at 6 degress after TDC ,

then do the same to the right hand side, yours Anna J

Thanks Anna, I had done all you recomended,but only checked the ignition timing (no adjustment) all in order so reassembled and kicked over, started ok (still mystified ???).

Anna, as my wiring is a mess, I intend to rewire complete with Bullet Connectors as original, could you advise me of the size of wire I should use?

Thanks

Pete

Hello Peter what,s the year is your Norton twin, TMS of Nottingham 0115-950-3447 have a complete wiring harness for Norton from 1949 Model 7 on ward to 1966. Hope this may help

yours anna j

1959, thanks Anna.