Clonking forks !

I replaced both sliders due to wear on the last fork rebuild. Also worth checking bush to stanchion clearance is a sliding fit. Bushes and sliders fitted are Andover Norton items from Mick and Angela Hemmings.

Gentle heating of the sliders may be required to help removal of threaded collars. Otherwise should be as per the manual.

Worthwhile mods include extended top bushes to provide a proper hydraulic stop on full extension and also mod to damper tube to provide hydraulic compression bump stop. Further details at www.members.shaw.ca/randell/roadholders.html. I now use 150cc per leg of 5wt fork oil and the forks are the best they've been, nothing like modern forks I would imagine but better than standard.

ride safe, Simon.

Hi Mark,

You will need a1 & 5/16 (33mm) socketfor thechrome top nuts &may need to grind a spanner to slim it downin order to fit the gap forthedamper rod nut (below the chrome top bolt). Also a good strap wrench to remove the seals.

I found the most awkward thing on re-assembly were keeping the o rings in situ on the stanchion within thetop covers & getting the holes at exactly the same levelfor the axle (patience helps .

Stripping/rebuilding is a fairly starightforward affar, if you are working on a mk III youdo not need to splitthe brake line - with care itcan be eased away from the studs on fthe ork leg at the mudguard mounting & the caliper can be suspended from thehandlebars.

I would suggest that you look at John Bould's damper conversion whilst you have the forks apart: http://lansdowne-engineering.co.uk/index.html(I have no financial interest!) - this is a drop inmod thatprovides compression/rebound damping at a sensible price (other options are available),

Good Luck,

Mike

Mk III Commando

No need to grind down a spanner re gap between top nut and damper rod spacer, just push in a 1/2" AF (or 9/16" ?) open ender and the spring will compress as you do so. Roadholders also have rebound and compression damping albeit crude and not easily adjustable.