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Boyer black box placement

Submitted by simon_tegg on Wed, 18/12/2013
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Commando

Hi, this maybe going over old ground but I could do with a bit of info.

Recentley started rebuilding a 750 Commando special from spares, I'm at the stage where I need to wire it up and want to place the Boyer ignition somewhere.

On a previous 850 I made a small case from ali sheet lined with foam, placed the unit inside and mounted it between the coils, were the ballast resistor ect would have been.

This seemed to make good sense and I was rather pleased with the tidy outcome... but I was starting to get comments like 'not a good place because of interference form coils' or 'will overheat because of coils'

I began to look around and as nobody appears to have done the same I'm having second thoughts!

Any thoughts on this? will there be interference? the 850 ran okay but the engine was very tired and needs a strip so its next on the bench

Submitted by simon_ratcliff on Wed, 18/12/2013

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I've done exactly the same on my Mk3. Current Boyer's been on 7 years, 47,000 miles and it's caused no problems.

Submitted by john_holmes on Fri, 20/12/2013

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I have mounted my Red box digital Boyer in the same place, this is more sensitive to EMF and needs resister plugs which I have fitted and have no problems.

Submitted by sam_milner on Sun, 22/12/2013

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Previously K Glassborow wrote:

This is where my Boyer was, now a Pazon for last 6-7 years.

Keith,

What head steady is that you have ?

available from where , cost etc etc ?

thanks

sam

Submitted by keith_glassborow on Mon, 23/12/2013

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Previously sam_milner wrote:

Previously K Glassborow wrote:

This is where my Boyer was, now a Pazon for last 6-7 years.

Keith,

What head steady is that you have ?

available from where , cost etc etc ?

thanks

sam

Its home made Sam, from an original steel design by Mike Taglieri in the US. It works really well but is off the bike at the moment while I play around with ISO clearances. The Dave Taylor item from RGM is similar but clamps to the 1" dia bracing tube. Its easy enough to make with some 3/8" rod ends, 3/8 UNF nuts & bolts and some 3/16 or 1/4 aluminum angle. Here's the original ..........

http://www.captain.norton.clara.net/mtp.html

Submitted by keith_glassborow on Tue, 24/12/2013

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Sam

I found this pic and crude dimensions. Top brackets made from same angle as base ( 2" x 1.5" x 3/16" aluminum angle - not sure of the grade though) tapped and bolted together with 6 x 12mm M5!! button heads. Bolts are 3/8 UNF SS appx 2" long, cut down and the rod ends are 3/8" UNF (mine happen to be LH threads). Full and half nuts are used as spacers as well as washers to set it up in a neutral position wheels on the deck. I think a US guy refined it further and added a tab to the front and used the Mk3 spring device. It does work well and adds little vibration, maybe a small amount but its hardly noticed. You do need good quality rod ends, mine have developed some play and rattle a little after probably 8,000 miles. Unfortunately I dont recall where they came from but they have a non metallic insert. Good luck.

Attachments headsteadydimssmall-jpg

 


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