Advice on headsteadies

A pre MK3 850 box section can be converted to MK3 using the parts book and a drill, no need to get the MK3 head steady and yes its about reducing low speed shakes. The Norvil isolastic head steady is on the large size and struggles to fit under all the different tanks and increases vibration slightly. It is superseded by the Dave Taylor head steady (RGM type you refer too ?) using heim joints which can also have the MK3 suspensory device added as well to give the best of both worlds, coupled with a fix to the wallowed out swingarm spindle using the external clamps and you end up with a bike with excellent handling and controlled vibration.

Previously keith_owen wrote:

Hi,

Can anyone advise me on upgrades to the head steady?

I imagine the MK3 steady provides advantages over that fitted to the previous box section 850 steadies but I imagine this has more to with elimination of vibration than anything else. Is the upgrade worth it?

I have seen various other upgrades there being one from Norvil that employs isoelastic thrust washers and would appear to make the transmission less prone to twisting in the frame and I guess should improve handling. Does anyone have experience of this device and does it provide worthwhile improvements?

I see that one can go one step further and that there are steadies available from RGM that are more costly. Any comments?

I want to improve upon what I already have (the original set-up) but without going to extremes.

Any thoughts welcome.

Keith

Andover Norton also do A Factory Racer head steady but also costly

I've tried both the Norvil and the Dave Taylor head steadies. I prefer the Dave Taylor one gives better handling and is a lot easier to set up. ð

I can confirm from experience that an original racing Isolastic head-steady will not fit under an original Fastback petrol tank.

Previously john_holmes wrote:

... The Norvil isolastic head steady is on the large size and struggles to fit under all the different tanks ...

Previously keith_owen wrote:

Hi,

Thanks for the comments. I think the upgrade path is therefore towards the Dave Taylor.

Thanks,

Keith

If you fit a Dave Taylor head steady make sure the clamp fits the frame tight enough to stop it turning. Apparently some frames were made with metric size tube. Easy enough to cure by taking a small amount of metal off of the clamp.

I believe the Andover Norton race head steady has been re- engineered to fit under a tank but do not take my word for it.

I have a Dave Taylor head steady with spring.

Also with the isolastic head steady, any slight misalignment results in the shims nipping up as you tighten the fittings. If you have access to a welder and some angle iron you can easily make one up for a fraction of the price. Google "Mike Taglieri Norton Commando headsteady" see what comes up if not I have some details.

Or try "Captain Nortons notes" for Mikes head steady