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Clattering Cam Followers!

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Hi all,

Well I have been bold and stripped the heads and barrels off my Electra to cure the oil leaks from the head gasket and to do a top end overhaul as required.   The engine has always clattered far more than usual for a Lightweight so I wasn't surprised to find the cam followers and guides were completely shot!   I am used to finding wear but these really were awful with what feels like at least 1 mm side to side play.  Luckily the face of the cam followers and the cam lobes show no signs of wear so hopefully replacing the cam followers and guides will solve the problem and quieten the engine down.   Having planned ahead I have a set of NOS Cam Followers and Guides so replacement should be straight forward.

However, (and there always seems to be a however with Lightweights!) a close inspection of the cam follower guides show that they have not be inserted with the 'slots' evenly lined up and they have been 'peened' presumably to make sure they can't drop.   This is something I have never seen before on my Jubilees or Navigator - has anyone else come across this?   Could it have been done at the factory?  

Next question, if my memory service me right the cam follower guides are inserted so the 'slots' are aligned fore and aft.   Am I right?

Looking at the pistons and bores it is clear that it has had a relatively recent rebore to +.50 thou and there is no evident wear on the bores thank goodness although I will be checking when I have the new cam follower guides pressed in.   A careful check of the underside doesnt reveal and casting flash or evidence of oil leaks from the base gasket so hopefully when the new gaskets are in stock I can fit one with confidence.

The valves however show signs of burning oil so I will be stripping them to see if they need replacing along with the guides and springs.

Finally the head gasket was an original copper and asbestos sandwich one (picture attached) and was very clearly leaking oil round the exhaust pushrod tunnels so I will be checking to see if the heads are warped before rebuilding them using Jubilee gaskets and perhaps a smear of sealant.   

Hopefully by following Peter Holland's meticulous torquing routine for the first 500 miles will result in a leak free engine - I can only hope and pray!

If anyone can offer answers to my questions or top tips about an Electra top end overhaul they will be gratefully received as always - lets hope the rebuild goes as smoothly as the strip down!

Cheers

Nick 

      

 

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Slots side to side.

The forces on the follower are from the camshaft and principally fore and aft.

Lubrication channels at the side where the loads are least. 

Might account for some of the wear and noise observed. 

Looks good in the photo. Not much burnt oil on those pistons. 

Peter

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Hi Nick, 

Better to set the bushes a bit lower rather than higher. Like this one projects down towards the camshaft. 

I'll be checking this is not projecting too far. Too far and the cam follower stem radius will foul the bush at full valve lift. 

Cheers. Peter 

 

Thanks for confirming that Peter and the picture which is a very useful reference.   A quick look this morning shows that only one of the four cam follower guides has been inserted correctly with the other three at various different alignments and depths including with the slots aligned fore and aft as seen in the attached phots!   

They also show where someone has peened them presumably to make sure they don't drop.    I hope this isn't a sign of problems with the cam follower bush fit in the barrels.......there seem to be signs of impact marks round the holes from someone trying to drift them out.   A sad legacy of bodging over its 60 year life - no wonder the followers have worn so much!   

Next step is to strip and inspect the valves, guides, springs and valve seats although having stripped the engine this far I think I will replace them anyway.   At least I've got all the new parts in stock!

Off to the workshop to explore more.......

Nick

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Hi Nick,

Have never seen these bushes peened in place before - I don't think this was ever done at the factory!

I have heard (& John Hudson** has written about this in the past) that some folk on the production line were bashing in the cam follower guides any old how. Your pictures are the first evidence of this practice that I have come across. It makes more sense to me that its on an Electra - as the Electra was born in Plumstead & I suspect Bracebridge St had nothing to do with it.

The big clue is the gearbox which, if you look at some of the exhibits at Sammy Millers Museum, was designed for a sports Matchless (G3? or G5?) that never saw the light of day. Its main feature was a stronger Mainshaft (3/4" rather than 11/16 as on the Navi at that time).

No Staff from Birmingham were transferred to London - except John Hudson. He writes that he was appalled when he saw the follower guides being bashed in, without paying attention to their orientation. The oil drain slots must run across the frame - not front to back!

There may be some merit in the argument that aligning them 'at a slight angle' could be beneficial - pointing towards a point 3ft in front (and 3ft behind for the rear ones) - as the cam does not lift the follower centrally. The idea at the time was to ensure the followers rotated in the guides to even out the wear. Sadly, all it achieved was to make them wear at the top and bottom of their stroke. whilst leaving the mid-portion unworn.

Any tappet noise/clattering you hear is usually attributable not to loose tappets, but to the followers rattling to & fro in their guides. Replacement is the only cure. NOC spares have both in stock. The followers are expensive, as we have had them remanufactured - and it's not an easy job!

The pictures show my Electra barrels WITH Jubilee head gaskets (best fit!!) - note the slots are East-West across the engine, and the guides are about 1/2" down the bore measured from the front edge (away from the cylinder)..difficult to be exact, as they are at an angle. You can see better at the bottom of the barrel, where the guide protrudes by 3mm or so.

 

**John Hudson was the Service Manager at Norton in Birmingham. Many a Norton Owner in the day was very grateful to the ever-helpful JH, who would rebuild bikes under warranty at peoples houses while they slept - in order that the bike was ready (if possible) to take its owner to work the next day. As stated above - he was the ONLY employee to transfer South when Norton production moved to AJS/Matchless in 1963. What a shambles that was! Clapped out lathes without their operators meant that nothing lined up - as nobody knew you had to add a couple of thou here, or wedge a feeler gauge under there, etc.

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Hi Andy, 

Thanks for the fascinating background to my cam follower guide mystery - it confirms what Peter has said and my memory of the guide orientation.   I am used to worn cam followers in my Jubilee and Navigators over the years but I have never seen them as worn as they were on my Electra - they visibly rocked side to side with a 'click' - but no wonder when the guides were so badly aligned!   I have replaced the guides from the NOC spares scheme correctly orientated with the oil slots across the engine and the cam followers with NOS parts I picked up on ebay some time ago which are a very satisfying fit so hopefully the engine will be a lot quieter!

As for the heads gaskets I have a set of Jubilee composite gaskets ready to use but will also be seeing if the early, spigotted Navigator headgasket fits and will report back!   

The next challenge is to find a set of Hepolite +0.040" pistons - the Electra really needs a rebore but NOC spares and Norvil don't have any and the only ones I can find are JP pistons which have a very dubious reputation.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks again - your advice is invaluable!

Nick       

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I found the Jubilee Gasket made the best fit around the Electra spigotless cylinder. The Navi gasket creates a little pocket all around the top of the cylinder, and under the head. If you are struggling for +40 pistons - have you managed to locate other sizes? You may have to sleeve your barrels down to fit smaller pistons - or go out more on your existing barrel? Pistons do come up now and again - but "Murphy's Law" states they never appear when you want them. I would be wary of JP pistons, as my understanding is that they are modified car pistons. Nothing wrong with that - if they were to be used in a water cooled engine. Its because water cooled engines tend to run cooler & thermally more constant then our air-cooled engines, so their thermal coefficient of expansion is different to pistons designed to run in air-cooled engines - so, yes - try to get original pistons if you can. If you are stuck - then find an engineer that understands the problem & can advise what to do. We had such a chap in Bristol - Steve Riley (AKA Piston Broke) - but we lost him last year...damn shame, all that knowledge gone!
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I've used JP pistons in my Navigator engine rebuild well aware of the poor reputation of the product.    Superficially, the pistons I bought (+0.020") looked okay. Closer examination brought up some concerns.  They where somewhat heavier than the originals,  H&G 175g, JP 210g, much heavier even comparing std. size with +0.020",  that's a bare piston. The JP gudgeon pins have a parallel (drilled) bore, I tapered each end of the pins and improved the surface finish of what was left of the parallel bore.  This brought the weights very close, H&G vs JP pin.   Ring pack the same weights. I also removed the "extraction ears" from the circlips.  I machined a small slot in the piston to aid circlip removal I lightened the piston by removing metal from the inside below the bottom ring and some from the inside of the crown.  The weight came down to close to the H&G piston. There is a "centre drill" pocket in the crown of the piston that meant that I could not take too much from the over thick crown, see photo.  I assume this pocket was to aid machining the piston.  The clearance specified by JP suggests that the correct material is used for the piston with regard to air vs water cooling.   As for the pistons being modified car pistons, firms that specialise in low volume piston manufacture will not make an individual mould for a piston.  They will have a few moulds (forging dies as well) covering the size range they deal with.  Also the mould core will be interchangable between O/A piston diameters.  Some "mix and matching" will ensure most sizes will be covered. So far I've managed about 100 miles so far, no problems with the pistons, yet.  Hardly proof of the durability of the pistons, time and miles will tell!  

 


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