From where should an International not leak oil...?

...i bought the book...

your picture is why i asked the question about feed line being top or bottom because in both the '36 and '38 Instruction Manuals the sketches clearly 'depict' the "delivery" line of OHV on top -and- "delivery" line of OHC on bottom.

All my whining in previous posts about not having enough room to fit a ball valve is because i thought the "delivery" line from oil tank connected to top fitting... The small ball valve i have will fit handily on the lower hose.

Ok, Jonathan!

Brass “quill,” got it!  What is the "Niels diagram" ?

Ok.  Back to the conversation at hand; my attempt at removing the Tell Tale.  That threaded steel piece (hollow bolt) is solidly threaded into the crankcase.  I tried my Yankee ingenuity to remove it, it seems solidly in place.  If I had a second nut, I would attempt turning the piece out.  Not a part one wants easily buggered with pliers of any sort.  So, at least for the time being I’ll put a suitably sized washer atop the packing and otherwise leave the Tell Tale as is.

I have the cylinder oil metering screw set at one-half turn out from closed.

As i write this, i am on RacingNorton, and i see Paul sells both the springs for big end oiling and cam oiling.  The springs are two different part numbers, 0245 A11/16 for the pressure release ball -and- 0081 A11/14

Jonathan, I’ll await news from you about your sourcing the springs and 7/32" ball. (my local outlets only carry 3/16" and 1/4")  If you still want to kindly order the crush washers and rubber seals (not expected) for the tube, thank you.  I’ll certainly be more than happy to remit the funds; paypal?   I’m not sure when I will remove the cambox, but it will be done.

I bought Niels Schoen’s book, I can only imagine how stunningly revealing it will be.

So, that’s all for now…

...for that tip on the one-way breather.

yeah, that's what it feels like, Loctited in.  I noted Racing Vincent sells the nut, so if i decide to buy that nut I'd have 2, then i probably could get that threaded tube out...

Hi Jon,

i'm not sure i know how to find messages you might have pm'd me...  i sent you a couple pm's with my contact information, i don't know if you received them and if you replied i'm not sure where to look for them.  i asked on "Website Suggestions" but managing the pm function still alludes me.

my email is sandcast232@outlook.com i don't know if you can see it in my profile or details or not.

... email address sandcast232@gmail.com  or again, sandcast232@outlook.com

Thank you!

...thanks for the referral on Garrat's text.  I've done an internet search including Ebay UK and come up empty.  I would appreciate any suggestions where I might look to source this book.  I did a "saved search" on UK and USA ebay, i see a couple copies sold within the last 2 months.

Interestingly enough, the book by E. M. Franks (which i have) carries the nearly same title in my internet searching for Garrat's book, "a practical guide covering all standard models from 1948."  However, Frank's book is titled on the inside cover, "a practical guide covering all standard models from 1932"...

Kind regards.

…I certainly will not turn the bike into a basket case!  (:

Having never been around an Inter upon being parked after a good run much less seen one in person until I got mine, I have no baseline to form any evaluation from the oil leaks (actually a flow) I’m seeing come from mine.  So, I am very much depending on the experience you folks share and reflect on what each of you say along with reading the literature and going through the different websites to further familiarize myself with the machine.  I am very contemplative, methodical and step-by-step procedure oriented anytime I work on a machine, especially so on anything unfamiliar to me.  And, I know to make only one change at a time when troubleshooting to evaluate for cause and effect.   

To date, with the help of you folks I have discovered that the spring pushing against the plunger that controls oil flow to the crank pin is not only broken and the coils way too thick making the spring very stiff.  And the spring-loaded ball controlling oil to the cam was ¼ inch and not 7/32 inch nor do I know if that spring is the correct one since the springs in these oil delivery passageways apparently are similar if not perhaps the same in appearance.  Once I have those springs replaced with the correct diameter ball in place, then setting the oil pressure at 8 psi, I intend to ride the machine to see how things go.  I also have a ball valve installed in the delivery line, oil has now been in the tank for several days with the valve closed and there is no oil filling the pan, so I feel like that is a major step forward.

The only other thing I will work on to resolve is the gas dripping from the float bowl once things are back together before I ride the machine any distance.  After, that I’ll determine what, if anything, is that I might need to address next.  I am ok with oil drips and leaks but not watching oil actively flowing from different parts of the engine running; I have two 1927 H-D JD’s I built from scratch and my ’67 Royal Enfield Interceptor with its leaks that I accept as part and parcel of running  such engine designs.  On the other hand, if it is normal for oil to flow out of the engine when it’s running, then I will live with that, but from everything I am hearing, oil flowing from the engine should not be the case. 

...just emailed you my mailing address !

ok!  the oil pressure gauge is in place.  Now for new springs and the 7/32" ball.  Then we'll see what happens next.