Diagram

i am running a mag/alt set up on my dommi 99 but want to use a small battery and rectifier has anybody got a diagram on this thanks

Previously wrote:

i am running a mag/alt set up on my dommi 99 but want to use a small battery and rectifier has anybody got a diagram on this thanks

First, you could be in trouble if you use less than a 5Ahr battery, on a long run you would tend to overcharge any thing smaller. If you are just going to fit a rectifier then you must be using a 6V system, you will need to retain your alternator switching as well. As regards a wiring diagram. All of these diagrams are basicly the same. You will need head and rear lights, stop light and switches and horn. And of course a way to recharge the battery, ie al alternator and rectifier and some sort of regulation. You also need to use a lead acid battery. Dry fit-burglar alarm batteries are NOT suitable. Cyclon cells are also not suitable for 6V alternator systesm, the uncontrolled voltage will destroy them on a good run.

Hope this helps   

Al Osborn.

Ian, you could forget the battery and just fit a large electrolytic capacitor, ideally with a modern electronic voltage control, or just with zenners but they waste power by dumping it to ground and hence fuel. You will need all 6 coils of the alternator in use for the headlight which is normally all the time if you are using the headlight on in day time as most of us do for safety nowadays. So with this arrangement you will have a simple circuit:

Alternator (coils paralled up)****Bridge rectifier( 25amp)****zenner Diode (or voltage controller)****Capacitor****Battery*****Wiring to light switch+ Stop lamp.

You can get the caps cheaply enough. I would use 4,700-10,000uF (microfarad) at 63 volts for a long lfe.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-x-Electrolytic-Capacitors-4700uF-63V-PSU-85-Degree-/170629542347?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item27ba5031cb

Just 25mm x 40mm. If you get two of them, you can connect in parallel if you need the full capacity.

Les

CORRECTION: I stuck in a battery by mistake, so wiring should be: 

Alternator (coils paralled up)****Bridge rectifier( 25amp)****zenner Diode (or voltage controller)****Capacitor****Wiring to light switch+ Stop lamp.

Les

Previously wrote:

CORRECTION: I stuck in a battery by mistake, so wiring should be: 

Alternator (coils paralled up)****Bridge rectifier( 25amp)****zenner Diode (or voltage controller)****Capacitor****Wiring to light switch+ Stop lamp.

Les

The above circuitry is fine for coil ignition, and a battery NOT less than 5AHR

If you are using a Magneto, do NOT use a Zener unless you retain (Modified)the 6V alternator switching circuitry. Or use a regulator/rectifier and you only need a capacitor as above if you are running without lights.

Al Osborn.

Mr Osborn says you do NOT require a capacitor if you run headlights and have no battery. I suggest starting the bike will be easier if one is included! You do not say your bike is magneto equipped, and many bikes have coil ignition.

Les

Previously leslie,peter_howard wrote:

Mr Osborn says you do NOT require a capacitor if you run headlights and have no battery. I suggest starting the bike will be easier if one is included! You do not say your bike is magneto equipped, and many bikes have coil ignition.

Les

Despite these post being months old let us try to keep them correct. You do NOT need a capacitor if you have a magneto as of course the cap. is basically there to help with starting. BUT if you have a magnetoe and no cap. but just happen to be running a modern regulator/rectifier then your lights wil be a bit 'pulsed' at tickover. A better result will be if you did fit the capacitor, but it will be only a modest improvement, but fitting a capacitor to help starting with coil ignition without a battery is virtually essential.

Are we clear? If not give a ring some time.

Al Osborn.