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The horrors within

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Re: The horrors within

Posted by John Pullen-Appleby at March 06. 2017

Previously Martyn Watson wrote:

Ah, after reading the thread properly and seeing the scan someone has very kindly supplied, it does look like there should be replaceable cups in there. The curved surface does look like a bearing surface however and i can't see why a bearing would fit into a housing with a curved receiving surface.

Can you upload a photo of the headstock from the side showing the ends?

 

Hello Martyn,

Uniquely in my experience that is what they have done--the housings look like bigger versions of the cups--the correct one cannot be used with my cones--which are, typically--in perfect order

Re: The horrors within

Posted by John Pullen-Appleby at March 06. 2017

Previously patrick_mullen wrote:

The original 1959 Maintenance Manual has no mention of a special puller for the crank sprocket and I don't remember anything special being required on the various engines I have stripped down in the past. I think clearance is a bit marginal to get most heavy duty pullers behind the sprocket. A spot of heat from an acetylene (don't roast it to red hot) usually works. The old acetylene welder was the best thing ever invented when you work a lot with old vehicles such as MGs.-streets in front of MIGs and TIGs -(except for actually welding on new work of course).

I don't know why Norton used the 1" Wipac rotor.  It's an unusual size.  The old Wipac rotor though survives well and it seems to keep it's magnetism.  I think you could drill out the centre hole in a BSA rotor but I have never actually tried it.

Patrick.

 

Hello Patrick,

Thanks for that.  I have all manner of pullers I'll have a go.  The WIPAC rotor  I have seems in very good nic-very magnetic and robust on construction.  I think it would be possible to bore out a Bantam one or for that matter a lucas one.

 

I did it once after one came undone on the Triumph and ruined the bore--I have a belt drive on the Rickman and, bearing in mind Triumph rotors cling on half a rotor's width of shaft with a shouldered nut--I wanted to make something that fitted better.

 

You have to put the rotor up in a chuck and take it out with a boring tool.  You can go as far as the magnets  (everything concerned gets magnetised to high heaven)  then you have to make a new centre and get the key way cut.   I got this done in an engineering works I worked at in the 1980s and while doing it two charge hand hands got into a fight about using the broach and both got sacked.  I saw one the other day--I don't think he recognised me.

Re: The horrors within

Posted by Andrew Wibmer at March 07. 2017

 

Previously John Pullen-Appleby wrote:

Hello Patrick

luckily I have a lathe in the shed.

 

What I am interested in is the puller to remove the engine pinon-(on the crank--dives the idler that dives the cams.  -I take it there is a special tool.  Crawford Logan was going to send me something by e-mail but I have not heard from him.

 

To my surprise I just took the shocks to bits and found the dampers work perfectly and do not leak oil.  I have ordered my stainless cones from Armours and found a gear lever that will fit.  I have a cut about gear pedal that I will  be to use to make up a kickstart with (the splined bit that is).

 

I am aiming to take the head off today.

 

I once fitted a WIPAC alternator to s C15 I helped some one build--new it was (in 1987)--that would have been 3/4 bore.  I wonder why Norton used an inch bore one--I always thought they tried to use parts common to the AMC range.

 

I plan to fit a Lucas stator

 

Cheers

JPA


Hello John,

I too am looking for a kickstart, but have something to get me by. This might be of interest to you, at least it throws a wider net:

http://fboc.niceboards.org/t3181-falcon-parts-substitute

Andrew

Re: The horrors within

Posted by John Pullen-Appleby at March 08. 2017

Previously Andrew Wibmer wrote:

 

Previously John Pullen-Appleby wrote:

Hello Patrick

luckily I have a lathe in the shed.

 

What I am interested in is the puller to remove the engine pinon-(on the crank--dives the idler that dives the cams.  -I take it there is a special tool.  Crawford Logan was going to send me something by e-mail but I have not heard from him.

 

To my surprise I just took the shocks to bits and found the dampers work perfectly and do not leak oil.  I have ordered my stainless cones from Armours and found a gear lever that will fit.  I have a cut about gear pedal that I will  be to use to make up a kickstart with (the splined bit that is).

 

I am aiming to take the head off today.

 

I once fitted a WIPAC alternator to s C15 I helped some one build--new it was (in 1987)--that would have been 3/4 bore.  I wonder why Norton used an inch bore one--I always thought they tried to use parts common to the AMC range.

 

I plan to fit a Lucas stator

 

Cheers

JPA


Hello John,

I too am looking for a kickstart, but have something to get me by. This might be of interest to you, at least it throws a wider net:

http://fboc.niceboards.org/t3181-falcon-parts-substitute

Andrew


Thanks Andrew

Re: The horrors within

Posted by John Pullen-Appleby at March 12. 2017

Hello Andrew,

I fortuitously found an AJS/Matchless kickstart on sale for £15 at the Kempton Partk autojumble with splines in useable order.  I was not expecting that I must say

Re: The horrors within

Posted by patrick_mullen at March 12. 2017

Hello John,

Have you managed to get the measurements for the Roadholder yokes you wanted?  Today I had the top yoke and headlight ears of my Navigator - I didn't actually dismantle the yokes.  So I measured the threaded top end off the stem/adjuster nut - it is a peculiar size , 0.806" which is probably 13/16". I'm only repainting the front end so I'm not dismantling any further at the moment.

Patrick

Re: The horrors within

Posted by patrick_mullen at March 12. 2017

Re: The horrors within

Posted by John Pullen-Appleby at March 14. 2017

Previously patrick_mullen wrote:

 

 

Hello Patrick,

Thanks for that.  As it happens my  cones arrived today and a glance told me that the stempost and nut I bought for £10 at the Kempton Park jumble were too big  (a gamble gone wrong there then).  I did get a kickstart though.

 

I'll fit a BSA oil in frame stem post.  I ventured into the crankcase this evening.  Do see my new thread

 

JPA

Re: The horrors within

Posted by martin_jones1 at March 15. 2017

Previously John Pullen-Appleby wrote:

Hello Patrick

luckily I have a lathe in the shed.

 

What I am interested in is the puller to remove the engine pinon-(on the crank--dives the idler that dives the cams.  -I take it there is a special tool.  Crawford Logan was going to send me something by e-mail but I have not heard from him.

 

To my surprise I just took the shocks to bits and found the dampers work perfectly and do not leak oil.  I have ordered my stainless cones from Armours and found a gear lever that will fit.  I have a cut about gear pedal that I will  be to use to make up a kickstart with (the splined bit that is).

 

I am aiming to take the head off today.

 

I once fitted a WIPAC alternator to s C15 I helped some one build--new it was (in 1987)--that would have been 3/4 bore.  I wonder why Norton used an inch bore one--I always thought they tried to use parts common to the AMC range.

 

I plan to fit a Lucas stator

 

Cheers

JPA


Re: The horrors within

Posted by martin_jones1 at March 15. 2017

Previously martin_jones1 wrote:

Previously John Pullen-Appleby wrote:

Hello Patrick

luckily I have a lathe in the shed.

 

What I am interested in is the puller to remove the engine pinon-(on the crank--dives the idler that dives the cams.  -I take it there is a special tool.  Crawford Logan was going to send me something by e-mail but I have not heard from him.

 

To my surprise I just took the shocks to bits and found the dampers work perfectly and do not leak oil.  I have ordered my stainless cones from Armours and found a gear lever that will fit.  I have a cut about gear pedal that I will  be to use to make up a kickstart with (the splined bit that is).

 

I am aiming to take the head off today.

 

I once fitted a WIPAC alternator to s C15 I helped some one build--new it was (in 1987)--that would have been 3/4 bore.  I wonder why Norton used an inch bore one--I always thought they tried to use parts common to the AMC range.

 

I plan to fit a Lucas stator

 

Cheers

JPA

Hello John.

Yes a Lucas stator will go over the Wipac rotor.

But the air gap between stator and rotor is increased.

The result is that  this combination is down on generated watts by about 15%. compared to Wipac to Wipac. But it does work so so.

I tried it on my Electra.

regards

Martin jones


Re: The horrors within

Posted by John Pullen-Appleby at March 15. 2017

Previously martin_jones1 wrote:

Previously martin_jones1 wrote:

Previously John Pullen-Appleby wrote:

Hello Patrick

luckily I have a lathe in the shed.

 

What I am interested in is the puller to remove the engine pinon-(on the crank--dives the idler that dives the cams.  -I take it there is a special tool.  Crawford Logan was going to send me something by e-mail but I have not heard from him.

 

To my surprise I just took the shocks to bits and found the dampers work perfectly and do not leak oil.  I have ordered my stainless cones from Armours and found a gear lever that will fit.  I have a cut about gear pedal that I will  be to use to make up a kickstart with (the splined bit that is).

 

I am aiming to take the head off today.

 

I once fitted a WIPAC alternator to s C15 I helped some one build--new it was (in 1987)--that would have been 3/4 bore.  I wonder why Norton used an inch bore one--I always thought they tried to use parts common to the AMC range.

 

I plan to fit a Lucas stator

 

Cheers

JPA

Hello John.

Yes a Lucas stator will go over the Wipac rotor.

But the air gap between stator and rotor is increased.

The result is that  this combination is down on generated watts by about 15%. compared to Wipac to Wipac. But it does work so so.

I tried it on my Electra.

regards

Martin jones

 

Hello Martin,

Thanks for that--I see-- I did not know that but to my knowledge the old Wipac stator 9which looks in good order) only puts out some 50 watts so my use of a lucas 3 phase 180 watt one would still give me far more power.

Ironically I am typing this while a class does a test and--my challenge this evening will be to get the Triumph home.  I have a high out put Lucas RM 24 and a Wassell regulator rectifier, a Boyer kit and--a clapped battery.  On the way here it would not start with the lights one and--by the time I got to Colchester 9 miles or so--it was like the exploding clown car running on one banging like a naval battle.  I managed to ride in but only just.

 

I think it has done a plug and am hoping that a rest will let the battery recover enough to start and then it can generate some power--a new battery is called for I think.

 

Cheers

JPA

 

 

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