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fastner finish ?

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fastner finish ?

Posted by andy_johnson at August 19. 2017

evening , when refurbishing fasteners, axles , shafts etc what do people replate with ? or do you  ? for example wheel spindles , if i get them replated with zinc would they be too big a diameter to fit through bearings and the threads would be too big to accommodate nuts.

 

cheers

andy

Re: fastner finish ?

Posted by anna jeannette Dixon at August 19. 2017

hello, most are nickel plated see quality chrome.co.uk 

Re: fastner finish ?

Posted by richard_payne at August 19. 2017

I've never seen nickel plate on a post-war Norton.

A lot will depend on the production date. Bracebridge Street were very fond of both bright (sometimes over a machined finish) and dull chrome. Woolwich cheapened things down and used a lot of cadmium.

Any refinishing will involve complete removal of the original finish so if the new plating is to original spec then there will not be fit problems...the art is in persuading them to do so.

Don't use hot zinc galvanising which is suitable only for old-fashioned dustbins and industrial constructions.

Re: fastner finish ?

Posted by Gordon Johnston at August 19. 2017

Some items would have been cadmium plated - no longer available. Different items require different finishes. Some fasteners bright chrome, some items like fork stanchions could be hard chromed and then ground down to size. Only very early Nortons would have had nickel plated parts. Be careful with refurbishing precision finished parts. As you mention, a spindle for instance would suffer - first by being polished and etched and then by being built up by electroplating. Careful masking would be required to leave the precision finished bits well alone. A lot to be said for the oily rag approach.

Re: fastner finish ?

Posted by richard_payne at August 19. 2017

Cadmium plating is still allowed for military and aerospace applications where there is no alternative so it is still carried out...you just have to find someone who can go in with a bucket on a Saturday !

Re: fastner finish ?

Posted by robert_tuck at August 19. 2017

As you have posted in "heavy twins"--- Many fasteners were plated in a satin chrome .Some prominent parts with polished chrome. The chrome was of good quality ,much still remains on my 60 bike.As i'm not fussed about orriginality I would consider nickel if tempted to DIY.  Stainless is often used but its not the salvation one would hope for and can bring other surprises.

Re: fastner finish ?

Posted by andy_johnson at August 20. 2017

my bike is a 1968 p11a

Re: fastner finish ?

Posted by Skip Brolund at August 21. 2017

Hi Andy,

Where are you located? I am in the USA & we do still allow cad plating, but our enviromental Protection Agency regulates it use & disposal (I am all for that!).

I rebuild magnetos & dynamos & am regularly visiting my cad plater. If You need anything done, let me know. Zinc looks kinda like cad, but doesent have nearly as many good qualities as the cad. As mentioned, the millitary requires it on a lot of parts.

 

Leaving out radiation control, the features that make cadmium attractive are: good corrosion resistance, solderability, cathodic protection of steel, galvanic compatibility with aluminum, excellent lubricity, freedom from stick-slip when torquing, malleability, economy, and no gummy and voluminous corrosion products.

Re: fastner finish ?

Posted by robert_tuck at August 21. 2017

AS the P11 was produced by Plumstead I would imagine that they would have specified the sort of finishes that AMC applied to AJS/Matchless bikes .They were not terribly interested in whatever Norton did in the past.

Re: fastner finish ?

Posted by David Cooper at August 23. 2017

Cadmium is not allowed except in exceptional cases in UK because it is extremely poisonous when vapour is inhaled. It has caused deaths of construction workers who flame cut cadmium played bolts.

Re: fastner finish ?

Posted by Paul Knapp at August 25. 2017

Axles and shafts don't need plating, as they are generally not seen. On assembly, give them a smear of oil. As far as nuts go, if I am not using new ones, which are always plated, I polish up the old ones and using my soldering iron, 'tin' them with resin cored  60/40 electrical solder. A light propane flame helps push the solder film around.  A quick wipe with a piece of heavy cloth while the solder is still molten to remove any excess leaves them with a semi bright finish which lasts and looks period. Works very well on oil lines as well.

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