Ok, shall we try again.... New member with ES2 project

I am new to the whole Norton single's thing (sounds like a dating club!) but I have fancied building an old style Norton race bike for a while now. But I am just a poor working man,so an Inter or Manx is way out of my league.  So I thought I would have a go at building an ES2 Inter/Manx replica in the loosest sort of way, as money allows.

So first thing on my shopping list was a garden gate plunger frame, which I found on eBay land, and then it was time to start collecting parts, as and when I could afford or find them, luckily for me I have some good friends and I was given a set of Model 19 cases, and a lay down box,  Another friend sold me a set of long Roadholders, and a set of rear springs, and I also picked up a 47 model 18 motor, although I am not sure I am going to use this yet, and may well offer it as a trade for either an ES2 motor or some parts to go in my model 19 cases.

So my frame is a 1951 ES2 as far as I can tell from the numbers, although it does not have the F letter prefix before the 4.

[IMG]http://kevindean.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p717072407.jpg[/IMG]

More can be seen here...

http://backstreetthunder.wordpress.com/

Kevin.

I think the chief differences between the model 18 and ES2 are just in the frames, the engines would be otherwise identical.

The ES2 did make the transition into rear suspension while the 18 slipped into obsolescence, your project sounds like fun.

Mike Pemberton can help you with any engine bits to speed things up a mite, RGM and Norvil carry a fair amount of single bits.

Regards,

Albert

Previously wrote:

Previously wrote:

I am new to the whole Norton single's thing (sounds like a dating club!) but I have fancied building an old style Norton race bike for a while now. But I am just a poor working man,so an Inter or Manx is way out of my league.  So I thought I would have a go at building an ES2 Inter/Manx replica in the loosest sort of way, as money allows.

So first thing on my shopping list was a garden gate plunger frame, which I found on eBay land, and then it was time to start collecting parts, as and when I could afford or find them, luckily for me I have some good friends and I was given a set of Model 19 cases, and a lay down box,  Another friend sold me a set of long Roadholders, and a set of rear springs, and I also picked up a 47 model 18 motor, although I am not sure I am going to use this yet, and may well offer it as a trade for either an ES2 motor or some parts to go in my model 19 cases.

 

So my frame is a 1951 ES2 as far as I can tell from the numbers, although it does not have the F letter prefix before the 4.

 

[IMG]http://kevindean.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v37/p717072407.jpg[/IMG]

 

More can be seen here...

http://backstreetthunder.wordpress.com/

 

Kevin.

 

I agree that there is nothing wrong with the early engine, but it won't have the "look" I am after, so I shall list the model 18 engine in the for sale section, as I would rather it went to someone who was after one, and I shall keep looking for a later ES2 or Model 19 motor, or parts.

Hi Kevin, the best thing I did when restoring my ES2 was to give the engine to Mike Pemberton of Pushrod Performance. There were so many things fundamentally wrong with it, things I would never have noticed. He was also able to set the valve timing spot on for a quite astounding increase in performance as well as fit the essential modern material kit like unleaded valve seats, Colsibro guides and austenitic valves. I don't see this stuff as exotic, it's essential if you're going to really use it.

Adam

"something that requires a hundred special tools to work on it,you may as well get a Jappa"

 Not sure why you bought Classic Japanese bikes into the thread John, but as you did, maybe you can explain to me all the special tools I need to work on my Classic Z1b? I haven't found the need for any so far, on any of he Old classic Kawasaki's I have, and do own. 

I love all old bikes John, not just old rusty brit iron.

regards, Kevin.

Thanks Albert, I will measure the stud length to see if they are the same,  if so, I shall pull the 18 motor apart and try the crank assembly in the 19 cases... more later.

Hi Kevin, one thing springs to mind from my own experience: if the main bearings drop out easily from the cases and especially if their housing is smooth and shiny then they've probably been spinning in the cases. Not good. If so, get advice as to the right type of Loctite product to use on reassembly to fix this, and the right way to use it. I can't remember regarding hot or cold cases/bearings but I'm sure someone here will know. If not Mike Pemberton, the singles expert.

Oh, and the sludge trap of course.

Hi Kevin,

not 100% certain here, but Norvils website lists the ball bearings as follows:

part # 017714  ball-steering-5/16"- set of 17 - ES2/18/19/50/Mod7/77

do you have a parts list to confirm the ball bearing part number?

Skip

Kevin previously wrote:

Blimey those bearing are expensive from Norvil,

Its crazy how one bearing can be $5.00, and one that looks identical is $100 ?! There can be hundreds of different bearing specs for the same size bearing, so I like to get mine from reputable bike shops to be sure it has all the right innerds & spec.s , plus its my small way of keeping them in business, it would suck if all the Norton Pars places closed because we all wanted to save a dollar or two.

Riddle me this Batman, How is it I can order one superblend main bearing 4 hours from my home at Dommiracer for $160.15, plus tax & delivery which brings the bill to approx. $180     -or- I can order the exact same FAG bearing with the exact same numbers, from the same country of origin, in the same box , from Norvil (the supposed price leader) for $72 (45.58 GBP), no tax, add for shipping, my total is $88 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I dont understand it? Thats a price difference of $108 (68 GBP) !!!!!!!!!!!!

Previously wrote:

 Quantity and trade discounts are common in the bearing retail sector.Trade customers get 25 to 50% off list,volume customers get 70 to 90% off list,depending on manufacturer.More discount on Chinese bearings ,less on German or Japanese .Nobody pays list,and then theres the Surplus bearing market offering even bigger discounts on old stock,US made bearings from the fifties and sixties.When you buy loose balls,allways check size.Some Ive had were up to 004 off size,larger or smaller.Theyre meant for applications like door slides,and swivel chairs.Regards John.

You are right about quality, you have to be careful, but the bearings I just bought from a bearing company, are listed as engineering grade, with all the relevent specs, and were also listed as, would you believe" Headstock" bearings. I ordered them Sunday on internet, and they were on the mat when I got home today.

Hi Kevin,

great photo! Looks like my situation! A '50 model 7 on the bench, also with wrenches & a coffee cup alongside

Skip